Maison François - London

34 Duke Street

St James's

London SW1Y 6DF

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 3, 2025 

The Food:

Maison Terrine and Gougères

Poulet Rôti Entier with Salad Leaves and Pommes Frîtes

Tarte au Citron

The Wine:

2016 Rauzan-Ségla Ségla     91

Punishment of some kind is deserved because I failed to write about Maison François until now.

Why?

Well, it belongs to a cadre of London restaurants that treats wine lovers with respect, and naturally, those should be prioritized in this parish. Instead of willing cash-cows herded in to suffer egregious mark-ups of whatever vino was being discounted at the cash and carry, this is a place that wants you to enjoy decent wine at a decent price with very decent food. Opened in September 2021 and located just a five-minute walk from Piccadilly and St. James Street, Maison François is a cavernous two-floor all-day brasserie. And it really is “all day.” You can pop in at breakfast for a glass of champagne, or between 2pm and 5:30pm to take advantage of a £15 steak frîtes, or for a slap-up dinner in the evening, or a cheeky late-night nightcap before catching the last tube home. 

The large yet cozy dining room at Maison François

On a Wednesday lunchtime, I found the restaurant filled to the rafters with a mixture of office workers, families with kids (and a dog catered for with its own bowl of water) and those wanting classy dining without the froufrou. It is noisy and bustling. Though not excessively loud, Maison François is not a place for a romantic dinner where you want to whisper sweet nothings. The décor has a tasteful Art Deco theme, high ceilings, walls bathed in a warm orangey glow and a clock stolen from an early-fifties Hitchcock movie. The room is cleverly divided into sections, which enhances the intimacy, lest it might feel too much like a large cafeteria. You can easily see why Maison François is a popular venue for merchants to host tastings and even take over the entire premises for a La Paulée. The basement, Frank’s, accommodates a more casual pescatarian deli counter that turns into a wine bar at night.

The menu comprises classic French bistro dishes: maison terrine, onion soup, scallops, côte de boeuf, pistachio madeleines, beurre blanc, tarte citron, Paris-Brest and so forth. Nothing here is going to challenge the culinary horizons of those au fait with Gallic cuisine. You are on safe ground, which is why I took my mother here, as she has dietary restrictions. It is not quite Michelin standard because there is not the finesse or artistry to warrant a star. However, dishes feel authentic, and there is clearly quality control for everything coming out of the open kitchen at the rear—some achievement given the number of covers. Service, courtesy of a fleet of smartly attired waiters, is absolutely top-notch including the sommelier, our chap having previously worked at La Trompette.

Maison pâté en croute

Gougères

I start with a pâté en croute. The meat is fresh with just the right amount of jelly underneath a perfectly flaky pastry (I forego the cornichons—I just do not get them, and they taste horrible). Also, a small plate of fluffy gougères, delicious even if it is a challenge stopping the rich and warm Comté dribbling down your chin. 

Poulet rôti entier

For mains, I share poulet rôti entier, accompanied by salad and fries. This is actually poulet noir, my favorite, the meat a little darker and gamier than regular chicken. It comes with perfectly crisp skin and plenty of jus to moisten it. This is the nearest I can get to the famous poulet de bresse in Beaune without using a passport. I should also add that the chips are cooked and seasoned to absolute perfection. Mum’s fresh halibut comes with a beurre rouge and winter leaves, the poisson fresh and flaky, cooked à point.

The wine list arrives in a small, soft leather book. It is not an enormous range, but there are plenty of vinous avenues to explore. Obviously, there is a Gallic leaning, however the curious oenophile will find plenty of grower champagne, a decent Spanish and South African selection, and a smattering from around the New World. Wines are thoughtfully chosen. If you want to splash out, then you can. Otherwise, there are plenty of very decent bottles at reasonable prices with a little age, for example, a 2012 Cantemerle or 2014 Tronquoy Lalande. There are also a number of tempting whites and reds by the glass. Furthermore, as this is a wine-friendly establishment, they are very accommodating for those wishing to bring their own and pay corkage, as the table next to mine had done. As always, telephone in advance and speak to the team.

I was taking it easy on libations, so I order a glass of 2016 Ségla. What I did not expect was our sommelier to stagger toward our table with a magnificent imperial, another bit of theatre. This bottle came directly from the château via a UK merchant, and it is drinking beautifully. Black cherries, cassis and violets on the nose immediately nail this as a Margaux, quite plush and seductive. The palate has wonderful balance and saturated tannins. It’s silky smooth with a sweet but poised finish that slips down the throat with ease. This is exactly what second labels should be for.

Tarte au citron

A dessert trolly is wheeled out for us to browse everything in the flesh. This is a lovely touch of retro theatre, which is what you deserve when paying a bit more. My tarte au citron is light and tangy, with just the right amount of sweetness. The accompanying ice cream is fabulous, with actual specks of vanilla. Proper ice cream.

Maison François comes highly recommended, especially for larger groups looking for a livelier lunch or dinner with quality French cooking accompanied by decent wines. My mum liked it because it makes you feel like you're eating somewhere special but without fuss or pretension. There is a relaxed vibe, and though I would not exactly describe it as cheap—this is St. James’s after all—the standard is a cut above the rest. It nods to the past, and yet it feels contemporary, with plenty of Gallic style.

Forgive me for not writing about Maison François earlier. I trust that I am now spared whatever punishment is deserved for my oversight. 

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