Parcelles

13 rue Chapon

75003 Paris, France

+33 (0)1 43 37 91 64

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 28, 2025

The Food:

Grilled leeks; vadouvan sabayon, olives, citrus peel, dried breadcrumbs

Roasted Roscoff scallops; winter squash, smoked fish foam sauce

Homemade gnocchi; sage butter sauce, fried sage leaves

Cabbage stuffed with pork; foie gras, pistachio, cognac, beef bouillon

Sainte-Nectaire; fig jam

The Wine:

2020 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée - 91

Vinous readers spending time in Paris will want to book a table at Parcelles. This small bistro/wine bar offers refined cuisine and a superb list. On this cold yet sunny winter day, the cozy, retro dining room is drenched with light, creating a perfect Parisian atmosphere for a relaxed lunch.

Grilled leeks; vadouvan sabayon, olives, citrus peel, dried breadcrumbs.

Parcelles offers a small menu of what is best described as elevated bistro food. I prefer small menus, as they are a sign of focus. Guests with specific dietary requirements should check out the menu before booking a table. The list is extensive, with plenty of choices. There aren’t too many deals; those days increasingly belong to the past. Service is competent but also not a highlight, at least not on this day. That said, I have a great deal of sympathy for anyone who works in the restaurant industry, as I have done those jobs myself and I know how hard they are.

Roasted Roscoff scallops; winter squash, smoked fish foam sauce.

Our starters are delicious. I admit I sometimes struggle with restaurants in France, as the cooking can be so heavy. At Parcelles, dishes are very much traditional in inspiration, with contemporary twists. Sauces are deeply flavored yet light. Grilled leeks with vadouvan sabayon is a perfect example. The sabayon, with its curry inflections, is an ideal complement to charred notes in the leeks and not overly heavy or dominant. Roscoff scallops, served with a smoked fish foam sauce, are on point.

Homemade gnocchi; sage butter sauce, fried sage leaves.

Homemade gnocchi with sage butter sauce and fried sage leaves is another fine, filling winter dish, maybe not quite at the level of the others, but still very fine. Italy meets France. Cabbage stuffed with pork and foie gras is superb. What a dish. Everything works. This is the Parcelles kitchen at its best. The cabbage is perfectly cooked, and the stuffing is well seasoned. A dash of beef bouillon adds dimension and complexity while also refreshing the palate. I would happily return to Parcelles just to have this again.

Cabbage stuffed with pork; foie gras, pistachio, cognac, beef bouillon.

In keeping with the style of the vintage, the 2020 Vosne-Romanée from Mugneret-Gibourg is a rich, heady Burgundy, perhaps a bit big on its own, but very delicious on a cold winter day. Black cherry, spice, mocha and dried flowers all stain the palate. Dark and enveloping, with notable intensity, the Vosne-Romanée is a gorgeous village-level offering from this renowned domaine. It’s a perfect lunch wine, not too serious, but with enough substance to be interesting. We polish the bottle off rather quickly, always the most important verdict of all.

Unfortunately, we don’t have time for dessert, but there is no way we are passing up cheese. Sainte-Nectaire, served with fig jam, is the perfect conclusion to this fine winter lunch.

Sainte-Nectaire; fig jam.

Parcelles is highly recommended. It’s a small restaurant, so reservations are essential.

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