NoMad New York City

1170 Broadway & 28th Street

New York, NY 10001

Tel. + 1 212 796-1500 

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 13, 2020 

The Food:

Fried Chicken with Chili-Lime Yogurt

NoMad Seafood Tower

Tortelloni; Black Truffle, Celery Root & Parmesan

Mushroom Variations with Bulgur and Sunny-Side Up Egg

Suckling Pig Confit with Puntarella and Dates

Duck; Dry-Aged, with Carrots, Radish & Sorrel

Milk & Honey; Shortbread, Brittle & Ice Cream

Coffee; Granita with Crema & Vanilla Ice Cream

The Wines:

I have been to NoMad many times, but most of the times to host Vinous events in one of the private rooms. I was really looking forward to this dinner in the main dining room as a brief distraction during what has become a very rough time around the world.

With Covid-19 dominating headlines and a situation that seems to bring with it new wrinkles every day, it’s not easy to know what to do. The term ‘social distancing’ is now part of our lexicon. How much ‘distancing’ is responsible, and how much is too much? These are not easy questions to answer.

Tortelloni; Black Truffle, Celery Root & Parmesan

As I walked into NoMad, the first thing I noticed is how quiet it was. Having worked for a number of years in restaurants, I am keenly aware of these two simple truths about the industry: 1) margins are very tight and 2) no restaurant, no matter how successful, is ever more than a few bad weeks away from layoffs, or even closing. Many of us can work from home, maybe not all of the time, but enough to substantially get by. The hospitality industry, by definition, relies on people spending time with people. I can’t help but be deeply concerned about the state of the world at present. This was my first dinner at NoMad following Daniel Humm’s split from the Sydell Group, which manages the NoMad properties. I can’t say that I see much change, at least not so far. So, with all that as background, I was happy to settle in for dinner with a dear friend.

Mushroom Variations with Bulgur and Sunny-Side Up Egg

The Fried Chicken? Order it. You will find it on the bar menu. It is absolutely divine. We finished ours before I could even take a photo and came very close to ordering a second portion, but seconds of both the chicken and onion bread would have been over the top, even for me. Instead, we followed with the Seafood Tower, which consisted of four small bites, my favorite of which was the lobster salad with tarragon.

Suckling Pig Confit with Puntarella and Dates

The first courses are magical with the 2014 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru from Raveneau. I am surprised to see the 2014 so open and expressive. Usually a much steelier, tightly wound wine, especially in its youth, the 2014 is wonderfully expressive, with a good bit of mid-palate richness and depth to play off the more seashell/mineral-drenched notes are so typical. Raveneau’s Montée de Tonnerre is one of my favorite wines from any region. On this night it dazzles.

The tortelloni, served with black truffle and celery root, with a sort of Parmesan foam, is a fabulous dish that moves us into the reds. After much debate we settle on Chave Hermitage…1989 and 1990. That doesn’t exactly happen every day.

If there is one region I wish I knew better, it is the Northern Rhône, and specifically Hermitage. These two wines from Chave are stellar. Initially rather austere, the 1989 Hermitage blossoms beautifully with a bit of time in the glass as it gains depth, volume and complexity. The aromatics and overall vibrancy are just captivating. As gorgeous as the 1989 is today, tasting it I am reminded of the very simple fact that wines are made to be drunk and not cellared forever. The 1989 is a superb Hermitage, but its time has arrived. The 1990 Hermitage has more richness and density, but it is also just a bit bretty. A whole range of sage, rose petal, licorice and lavender notes emerge over time. This isn’t the very best bottle of the 1990 I have ever had, but it is a fine example just the same. Like the 1989, the 1990 is peaking. It will likely hold on for a few more years, maybe more, but it won’t get any better than it is right now.

Duck; Dry-Aged, with Carrots, Radish & Sorrel

Three main courses arrive. What a feast. The mushroom variations with bulgur and egg is a great wine dish, with a whole range of aromas, flavors and textures that work so well. I’d like to have again with a Nebbiolo, I must confess. NoMad’s Suckling Pig confit is hearty, rustic and so delicious, the perfectly crisp skin a great contrast to the moist meat. I can’t say I am a huge duck fan, but the dry-aged duck breast is cooked perfectly and another dish that works so well with these two wines. In a word: delicious.

Milk & Honey; Shortbread, Brittle & Ice Cream

I rarely order dessert, but on this night a sweet finish seemed appropriate. Of the two desserts we ordered, I preferred the Milk & Honey with shortbread, brittle and ice cream for its comfort food-like feel. The Coffee dessert was tasty, but the presentation was a bit chaotic and all over the place.

All in all, this was a fabulous dinner that brought home the importance of spending time with those who matter, especially in times when the world and day to day life can feel so fragile. Special thanks to Wine Director Thomas Pastuszak, Assistant Wine Director Sarah Plath and Sommelier Ren Neuman for taking such great care of us.