Bar Boulud

1900 Broadway (across from the Lincoln Center)

New York, NY

Tel. (212) 595-0303

October 2008

This was my first dinner at Bar Boulud, Daniel Boulud’s new winebar located right across the street from Lincoln Center. The casual, bustling Bar Boulud serves rich bistro fare with an emphasis on traditional French comfort foods such as charcuterie and steak frites. We were seated at a large communal table which added to the informal, warm atmosphere. All of our food was outstanding. The cuisine is definitely on the hearty side, so Bar Boulud is not exactly the kind of place one can visit regularly, but the food, service and atmosphere are first-class and make for a great dining experience. A second recent dinner was just as outstanding.

Trimbach’s 1990 Riesling Clos St. Hune was nothing short of monumental. Layers of lime peel, petrol, mango, flowers, minerals and passion fruit flowed from the glass in stunning style. The wine showed profound depth and clarity in an extraordinary display of sheer class, with sweet notes of basil and sage that lingered on the long finish. This was a perfect wine to pair with our appetizers as the sweet bouquet was utterly captivating and the bright acidity provided a perfect foil to the richness of the charcuterie. It was one of the most breathtaking, profound wines I have ever had the privilege of drinking. Unfortunately Joly’s 1985 Coulee de la Serrant was rather monolithic in its suggestions of marzipan, almonds and smoke. It remained one-dimensional and angular throughout the course of the evening, with little development in the glass.

The 2000 Griottes-Chambertin from Fourrier presented somewhat advanced aromas and flavors. A mid-weight wine, it floated on the palate in a sensual, transparent expression of sweet Pinot fruit, autumn leaves, spices and earthiness. This was a beautiful Burgundy to behold in the glass as much for its shortcomings as its attributes. In that sense, it was a very human wine that perfectly embodied the qualities of this site and vintage as captured by Fourrier. Rouget’s 2000 Cros Parantoux (magnum) revealed high-toned aromatics and tons of vibrant fruit in a seamless, layered style. This generous, engaging wine was endowed with tons of density as well as freshness. It was sublime. While the Fourrier offered a fairly complete, mature drinking experience, the Rouget gave the impression of being built for the long haul. Both Burgundies were exceptional with my braised flatiron steak and my wife’s steak frites. 

Food:

Assorted Charcuterie

Roasted Diver Sea Scallops, Brussels Sprouts, Concord Grapes

Braised Flatiron Steak, Carrot Mousseline, Onion Confit 

Wine:

1990	Trimbach Riesling Clos. Ste Hune	98
1985	Nicolas Joly Coulee de la Serrant	88
2000	Fourrier Griottes-Chambertin	92
2000	Rouget Cros Parantoux (magnum)	94

[Photo and credit: Bar Boulud, New York]

--Antonio Galloni