The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem

BY NEAL MARTIN | MAY 28, 2025

I have tasted a great deal of mature Bordeaux wine, including Sauternes, although I have not yet achieved the magic number of 100 different vintages of a single estate. A few are not far away: Gruaud Larose (90), Climens (85) and Latour (81), all in the Vinous database for your perusal. I mentioned my goal to Lorenzo Pasquini, Yquem’s head winemaker, when visiting in April, and he promised to do his best to help, cracking open a selection of mainly off-vintages that filled some of the gaps. I have become more interested in esoteric years of Yquem and indeed, many Bordeaux châteaux, especially those written off by cognoscenti. You could say that a pessimist is never disappointed, but I always approach things with an open mind. Truth is, it’s hard to find a Yquem that doesn’t give pleasure. That does not preclude it from criticism, and indeed, readers will find some vintages like the 1985 and 1993 in this short article that could be assigned as “failures.”

On the other hand, there are others that defy all preconceptions. Who knew that the 1965 Yquem was a modest little gem? No, it doesn’t deserve superlatives, but it somehow upheld its raison d’être to give pleasure after an appalling season. Also, the 1948 Yquem, opened to raise a glass to the late Bill Blatch, was worthy of the occasion. Sandwiched between two bona fide legends, it was always going to be overlooked, however, it shone brightly that evening.

After this ragtag, to use cricketing parlance, I am still at the wicket, 79 “not out.”

My innings continues.

© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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