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The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem
France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, featured
May 2025
,I have tasted a great deal of mature Bordeaux wine, including Sauternes, but I have not yet achieved the magic number of 100 different vintages from a single estate. I mentioned my goal to Lorenzo Pasquini, Yquem’s head winemaker, when visiting in April, and he promised to do his best to help, cracking open a selection of mainly off-vintages that filled some of the gaps.
Cellar Favorite: 1977 Diamond Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, napa, United States: California
May 2025
,Even in its fourth decade, the 1977 Volcanic Hill shows little ageing in the glass, attesting to what is reputedly Diamond Creek’s longest-lived Cabernet Sauvignon.
Rosé Revolution: Light Red is the New Pink
featured
May 2025
,Rosé’s future looks redder, more serious and more satisfying than ever. The growing movement of bolder, ageworthy wines from far-flung locales is making it clear that Rosé isn’t just a season, it’s a category with staying power.
Vinous Table: Canteen, London, UK
Vinous Table, featured
May 2025
,Canteen successfully combines casual presentation with quality-driven dishes to provide some of the best Italian food in London. The dishes are polished and so delicious that you will be plotting your return at first chew.
The Diverse Villages of Rioja: A New Trend Emerges
Spain, featured
May 2025
,Rioja is changing. One of the most important factors in that change is the increased prominence of small and mid-sized producers and their interpretations of Rioja as village, vineyard or parcel wines. These wines stand in stark contrast to the region’s historically blended wines, and yet they may also represent the most promising future for Spain’s most famous winegrowing region.
Emilia-Romagna: Chomping at the Bit
featured, Italy: Center & South
May 2025
,Emilia-Romagna is transforming before our eyes. Winemakers are redefining the boundaries of Sangiovese, offering surprising depth and a newfound purity, while categories like Lambrusco have started down a more artisanal path. The only thing holding the region back is Mother Nature.
Cellar Favorite: 2004 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Montrachet Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
May 2025
,The 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is an elusive white Burgundy that amounts to one barrel. A friend generously offered this bottle of 2004 Montrachet at a casual dinner in Beaune during Hospices weekend last November.
Vinous Table: Casa Julián, Tolosa, Spain
Spain, Vinous Table
May 2025
,The Basque region is a foodie’s paradise, a cradle for some of the finest fish, meat and dairy in the world. Casa Julián is a bona fide institution, and will certainly be one of my top meals of 2025.
Argentina: Exploring the Outer Reaches
Argentina, featured
May 2025
,In a country as vast as Argentina, vines grow in the most unexpected places. This report explores some of the lesser-known regions where wine is made, along with a look at classic areas such as the southern and northern valleys. These 250 wines tell the story of a different landscape—and a different people.
Going Underground: Clos Fourtet 1989-2019
France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, featured
May 2025
,Clos Fourtet is one of the most picturesque and ideally located châteaux in Saint-Émilion, blessed with some of the finest terroir on the limestone plateau. Under Mathieu Cuvelier, Clos Fourtet has realised its potential and is now regarded amongst the appellation’s best wines. The heart of this piece is an interview with Cuvelier following a vertical tasting of recent vintages, detailing specifics of the vineyard and winemaking approaches.