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Barbaresco: The Stellar 2021s & Surprising 2022s
Italy: Piedmont, featured
Oct 2024
,The 2021 and 2022 vintages show two very different sides of Barbaresco. Now that most of the wines have been released, the early promise of 2021 is no longer a question of potential but of reality. These are vivid, exceptionally beautiful wines that show the heights Nebbiolo can reach. Conditions were much more challenging in 2022, and yet the first wines I have tasted suggest there may be some surprises in store. We will see.
Cellar Favorite: 1973 Californian Cabernets
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, United States: California
Oct 2024
,A recent discussion about 1970s California wine on the Vinous forum prompted me to cleave away a couple of tasting notes from my round-up of mature wines.
Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
Oct 2024
,The 7th edition of Grouse Club was over. Bouchon Racine continues to serve outstanding Lyonnais-inspired dishes and attracts gourmands from afar.
Focus on Vacqueyras: Latest Vintages and Top Producers
featured, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
Oct 2024
,Vacqueyras is bouncing back from a challenging 2021 with the stronger 2022 and 2023 vintages. The 2022s offer greater consistency, while the 2023s deliver juicy, fresh and approachable profiles. In this article, I highlight standout producers and provide an update on the commercial reality of these wines.
Royal Tokaji Company: 2018 New Releases
featured, Hungary
Oct 2024
,The Royal Tokaji Company hailed 2018 as a “Royal Flush”, the first where every single vineyard produced a 6-Puttonyos. Are they bluffing? Or is it the real deal?
Santa Cruz Mountains – The Chameleon
United States: California, featured
Oct 2024
,The Santa Cruz Mountains boasts a long and storied past that has given rise to some of the most legendary American wines of all time, but the region’s identity is still coming into focus. Zooming in, the 2022 vintage was quite challenging, with mixed results for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while the 2021 Cabernets are among the most compelling and characterful in California.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Henschke Lenswood Abbotts Prayer Vineyard
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Australia
Oct 2024
,The 1990 Lenswood Abbotts Prayer Vineyard from Henschke is a rare old bird. I found little information on this wine, even from Henschke’s website, except that the vineyard was a majority Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot.
Vinous Table: Cornus, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
Oct 2024
,Cornus has hit the ground running. It was a pleasure to see familiar faces, including co-owner David O’Connor. It is a place for a special meal, though, at the time of writing, a three-course lunch for £55 per person means Cornus does not price itself out of many people’s pockets. The standard of cooking is amongst the best I have encountered this year. The wine list is enticing. Service is impeccable.
Morlet Family Vineyards: Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier 2007-2019
United States: California, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
Oct 2024
,Knights Valley is one of the most fascinating regions in Northern California. The AVA lies just north of Calistoga and is nestled between Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill and Fountaingrove in a corner of Sonoma County that feels quite remote and pastoral. Knights Valley excels with red and white Bordeaux varieties. The reds are marked by distinctive savory and mineral notes that, at times, recall the great wines of Pessac-Léognan. Luc and Jodie Morlet’s Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier is a terrific example of what Knights Valley has to offer. This retrospective back to the inaugural 2007 provided a fascinating opportunity to see how the wine ages.
Gigondas: Triumphs, Challenges and New Beginnings
featured, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
Oct 2024
,The highly anticipated inaugural 2023 Gigondas Blanc category marks a significant milestone for the Southern Rhône appellation. Alongside these crisp whites, the bottled 2022 reds are gorgeous, while the unfinished 2023s, at this early stage, offer charming, juicy and approachable profiles.