Mavericks

51 South Edgemere

Montauk, NY 11954

+1 631 668-8506

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | AUGUST 23, 2024

The Food:

Grilled Oysters; Kimchi, House Smoked Lardo

Amagansett Gem Caesar; Boquerones, Lemon, Sourdough Crumbs, Marcelli Pecorino

Lobster Cavatelli; Saffron, Tomato Conserva, Calabrian Chiles

Bone-In Swordfish Sirloin; Vadouvan Curry Butter

Amagansett Flowering Broccoli; Tare, Chives, White Sesame Seeds

The Wine:

2017 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux    95

Located on Fort Pond, on Long Island’s East End, Mavericks is one of the best places in the Hamptons for readers seeking an elevated dining experience. The interior, with its large bar, is smartly elegant, while outdoor tables offer a more relaxed vibe perfect for enjoying a long meal as the late afternoon melts into the evening.

Executive Chef Jeremy Blutstein presents a wide-ranging menu that pays homage to the bounty of the sea and local farms. There are plenty of dishes to satisfy carnivores as well, especially in the entrées.

Grilled Oysters; Kimchi, House Smoked Lardo

Our dinner starts with Grilled Oysters, which are served with kimchi and delicious, house smoked lardo, a combination of saltiness and brininess that works well. The Amagansett Gem Caesar is crisp and refreshing, perfect for a warm summer evening. The Lobster Cavatelli is fabulous. Bold, lusty flavors abound, all kicked up by a good dose of chiles. I suppose one very hungry person could finish this, but the cavatelli is really an ideal dish to share, as the portion is generous. We loved it. Meat features heavily in the main courses, but there are other options as well. The Bone-In Swordfish Sirloin sounds intriguing. Unfortunately, it comes to the table cold. I spent enough time in restaurants in my 20s to know that these things happen every so often. They shouldn’t, but they do. It’s the response that counts. Mavericks handled the situation with grace, class and professionalism. The cold swordfish was promptly replaced, and dinner resumed without a hitch. A delicious, playful dish, the Swordfish Sirloin is superb. Vadouvan curry butter is a wonderful complement of unexpected flavors that really complete the dish.

Amagansett Gem Caesar; Boquerones, Lemon, Sourdough Crumbs, Marcelli Pecorino

Wine Director Vanessa Price’s list is superb. I am impressed by the selection of wines by the glass, as it shows real thought and an element of curation that is often missing. Sohm & Kracher, Christian Moreau and Flowers are among the producers featured in the whites section, while guests who prefer reds can choose wines from Gianfranco Alessandria, Faiveley, Hermann J. Wiemer and more. The full list is just as compelling. Although I am not the biggest fan of Rosé, the list at Mavericks is packed with interesting choices, organized by category, which is great to see as it makes decisions easier, something that is increasingly a challenge for today’s consumer. Moving into whites and reds, the list offers a good mix of adventurous choices that will delight geeks and more mainstream options that more casual wine lovers will recognize. New York State is well represented, another positive. For those who want to splurge, there are options too. Only the Champagne section is a bit thin relative to the rest of the program.

Lobster Cavatelli; Saffron, Tomato Conserva, Calabrian Chiles

I very rarely do corkage, as I like to try new things and support wine programs, especially when they are at a high level, as they are here. This night was a rare exception. The 2017 Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux is every bit as impressive as the last time I tasted it a few years ago. Deep and intensely mineral, the 2017 remains wonderfully vibrant. Like all Raveneau wines, the 2017 Butteaux opens beautifully with time in the glass, displaying myriad layers of citrus, slate and floral overtones. My only regret is not having opened it a few hours in advance, but the circumstances did not allow for that. Readers cellaring the 2017 should be thrilled.

Bone-In Swordfish Sirloin; Vadouvan Curry Butter

After this very rich meal, we skipped dessert. I look forward to exploring that part of the menu on a future visit. Readers spending time in the Hamptons will want to check out Mavericks. The ambiance, food and service overall experience are all top-notch.

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