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2023 Wachau and Lower Austria: Mercurial Weather Gods Smiled in the End

In 2023, all the signs pointed to a long growing season with a late harvest, but rains after a hot summer with record temperatures sped everything up. These August rains provided some relief from dry stress but also turned into devastating hailstorms in places. Coolish and sunny weather allowed hail-damaged grapes to dry, preventing what could have been a complete rot-fest. In the end, growers could harvest ripe grapes. Overall, Lower Austria and Vienna delivered exquisitely clean wines with vivid fruit expression and welcome crunch and contour. If recent comparisons serve, 2023 tops 2022 but does not quite reach the level of 2021 in all respects – even though some wines get there.

Leflaive 2022 bottles

A Burgundy Intermezzo

In the vineyards on the right bank of the layon river  chenin blanc can produce a diversity of styles from powerful dry whites to distinguished botrytized wines cover copy

Loire Chenin Blanc: Chaume the Way

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Chianti Classico: The Magnificent 2021s

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Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites

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The Chilean Coast: Where the Pacific Shapes Vibrant Reds and Whites

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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux

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Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017

Drouhin la paulee bottles

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019

Old vines that create the rosso del conte at tasca's tenuta regaleali estate 2 copy

Unveiling the Diverse Palette of Sicily: New Releases and Beyond

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Quinta do Noval: Latest Releases

Vinous Table

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The Cocochine, London, UK

There are many aspects of The Cocochine that I enjoyed, not least the quality of ingredients and execution. Perhaps the menu plays it safer than I was anticipating. Maybe that was because of my own choices - an observation rather than a criticism.

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The Merry Harriers, Surrey

The ever popular seafood tostada final cover

Mustards Grill, Napa, CA

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Hatched, London, UK

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The Four Horsemen, NY

Vinous Favorites

2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco

2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco, 92 points

Honeyed florals, candied ginger, fennel and crushed green apples form a spicy, inviting bouquet as the 2023 Etna Bianco opens in the glass. Ripe orchard fruit plays against a core of salty minerals and savory spices. The 2023 tapers off perfumed and long, leaving a pleasantly sour citrus tinge. (EG)


Cellar Favorites

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2015 Envínate Lousas Parcela Camiño Novo

During the Burgfest tasting, we tend to diversify our drinking habits at dinners as members proffer bottles from their cellars. One of the best was the 2015 Lousas Parcela Camiño Novo from Envínate, which translates as “wine yourself”.

1971 Latour & 1971 Les Forts de Latour

1986 Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru and 1989 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

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