Café Boulud

20 East 76th Street,

New York, NY 10021

Tel.: +1 (212) 772-2600

June 2008

Café Boulud is Daniel Boulud’s version of a neighborhood restaurant, although the New York incarnation reflects its surroundings in the fashionable Upper East Side. The ambience and service are slightly less formal than at the flagship Daniel but the food and wine are equally brilliant. This early summer dinner was fantastic. With the exception of an overcooked risotto, all of the dishes were flawless. The two tartares were not only delicious and vibrant, but also very attractively presented. Another standout dish was the English Pea Ravioli, which exploded on the palate with the essence of bright spring flavors. Our main courses, the Seared Black Bass and Roasted Rib-Eye, were both exceptional.

Pierre-Yves Colin’s 2006 Meursault Charmes was simply gorgeous in its layered expression of lime peel, pears, flowers, sweet spices and subtle notes of toasted oak. This mid-weight wine paired beautifully with our raw fish courses. It was an exceptional bottle from one of my favorite producers. Roumier’s 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras offered further proof of the greatness of this already famous vintage in Burgundy. An over achieving wine at this level, this surprisingly dense, packed wine offered tons of ripe berry fruit in a radiant, expansive style framed by persistent notes of minerality that added complexity on the rising, floral finish. Though opened much too young, it was a great privilege to catch the 2005 Les Cras at this early yet immensely promising stage. 

Food:

Hamachi Tartare; Haas Avocado, Crispy Shallots. Radish, Soy-Yuzu Broth

Yellowfin Tuna Tartare Niçoise; Haricots Verts, Wax Beans, Quail Egg, Olive Panisse

Spring Risotto; Ramps, Watercress, Lemon Confit

English Pea Ravioli; Bacon, Spring Peas, Pea Leaves, Sherry-Shallot Jus

Seared Black Bass; Puy Lentils, Fennel, Preserved Lemon, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Brown Butter Foam

Roasted Rib-Eye: Pomme Pont Neuf, Bacon Wrapped Haricots Verts, Bordelais Sauce 

Wine:

2006	Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault Charmes	92
2005	Roumier Morey Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras	92

[Photo and credit: Bar Boulud, New York]

--Antonio Galloni