Bruce’s Birthday Bash, Part 2: Dinner

Grissini

484 Sylvan Avenue

Englewood Cliffs,

New Jersey 07632

201-568-3535

This magical evening continued into a delicious dinner blessed with a stunning array of wines. The menu, prepared by Grissini Restaurant and served al fresco, was simple, tasty and very nicely done, as always.

Three Champagnes from Philipponnat were all superb. The 1964 The Clos des Goisses (magnum, disgorged 2003) presented a more high-toned, floral personality than the 1966 that followed, with a relatively delicate, understated personality. The 1966 Clos des Goisses (magnum, disgorged 2000) was insanely beautiful, with an inner core of perfumed fruit and pretty notes of toffee and spices that added complexity. The 1990 Clos des Goisses was beautifully polished if somewhat reticent. White pepper, apricots and flowers lingered on the classy, elegant finish. Clos des Goisses remains surprisingly under the radar considering the exceptional quality of what is in the glass.

An assortment of Dom Pérignons was no less impressive. The 1964 Dom Pérignon was hauntingly beautiful as it revealed incredible purity and freshness, with gorgeous hazelnuts, ash and smoke that lingered on the sublime finish. This remains one of my very favorite pre-1970s vintages of DP.  The 1988 Dom Pérignon, tasted from magnum, showed of pretty layers of fruit with lovely fragrance and compact yet utterly refined personality. The 1995 Dom Pérignon (from jeroboam) was profound. In 1995 the jeroboams were disgorged a little later than the 750s, so in this format the wine is in reality very close to the Œnothèque bottling.  A sensual, sumptuous Champagne, the 1995 Dom Pérignon exploded onto the palate with a full-throttle expression of dense, ripe fruit. This was a remarkable bottle in every way. Readers lucky enough to own the 1995 Dom Pérignon in jeroboam are in for a thrilling ride!

We then moved into a series of insanely beautiful Champagnes from Krug.  The 1996 Vintage was staggering in its richness, depth and sheer density. It was every bit the monumental Champagne its reputation suggests. The 1990 Vintage, tasted from magnum, was remarkable for its opulent and exuberant personality and incredible finesse. The 1964 Collection was fully resolved. Though quite pretty, the wine was probably better a few years ago, as it seemed to lack focus and definition. The 1969 Collection showed off exotic nuances of smoke, passion fruit and spices in an understated, hushed style for Krug. The 1979 Collection was explosive, rich and layered, with a kaleidoscopic array of aromas and flavors, and long, exceptionally pure finish. It was pure magic. Sadly, the 1979 Clos du Mesnil was corked, which was a shame as 1979 is one of my favorite Krug vintages. The 1985 Clos du Mesnil made up for it, though. Ash, butter and smoke are some of the notes that emerged from this finely chiseled, taut wine. The 1985 Clos de Mesnil was drop-dead gorgeous. The 1995 Clos du Mesnil was simply awesome. A sweet, layered bouquet melded into a core of pure fruit that was a beauty to behold. A powerful Clos de Mesnil, the 1995 came across as a superb white Burgundy with bubbles. This bottle in particular was one of the finest – perhaps the finest – I have ever tasted. The 1996 Clos du Mesnil was a bit shy on this night. Still, it gradually emerged to reveal a finely-knit fabric of profound elegance. This fine, sculpted Champagne remains one of the most exquisite wines made in this historic vintage.

Food:

Black truffle fettuccine

Lobster risotto

Seared tuna loin

Grilled vegetables             

Wine:

1964   Philipponnat Clos des Goisses (magnum, disgorged 2000)	92
1966   Philipponnat Clos des Goisses (magnum, disgorged 2003)	94
1990   Philipponnat Clos des Goisses	94
1964   Dom Pérignon	96
1988   Dom Pérignon (magnum)	94
1995   Dom Pérignon (jeroboam)	96
1996   Krug Vintage	98
1990   Krug Vintage	94
1964   Krug Collection	90
1969   Krug Collection	91
1979   Krug Collection	96
1979   Krug Clos du Mesnil	?
1985   Krug Clos du Mesnil	96
1995   Krug Clos du Mesnil	94
1996   Krug Clos du Mesnil	99
1989   Taittinger Comtes de Champagne	94
1990   Taittinger Comtes de Champagne (magnum)	94
1996   Billecart-Salmon Clos Sainte-Hilaire	96
1990   Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart	94
1999   Jacques Selosse Brut	97
1928   Pommery (magnum)	92
1926   Bollinger (jeroboam)	?
1989   Domaine J.-F. Coche-Dury Meursault Rougeots	94
1945   Lafleur (magnum)	?
1955   Lafleur (magnum)	92
1929   Rausan-Ségla (magnum)	93
1969   Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de La Roche	92
1961   La Mission Haut-Brion	98
1962   Vega-Sicilia Único (magnum)	96
1961   Pétrus (magnum)	95
1996   Palmer (magnum)	94
1985   Bartolo Mascarello Barolo (magnum)	94
1989   Bartolo Mascarello Barolo (magnum)	96

[Photo and credit: Grissini, New Jersey]

 --Antonio Galloni