L’Aquila d’Oro (Castello Di Trussio),

Localita' Ruttars,11,

34070 Dolegna Del Collio

Tel.: +39 0481 61255

May 2008

I admit to having a special fondness for L’Aquila d’Oro as this is where I had my wedding reception a few years ago. The restaurant is located in the Castello di Trussio, which sits on a picturesque hillside in the Ruttars district of the Collio. The Castello itself is beautiful and impeccably maintained. An outdoor terrace provides a gorgeous setting for an aperitif and/or dinner when weather permits. The indoor dining room is decorated in a formal, traditional style. The always-charismatic proprietor Giorgio Tuti runs the dining room with his inimitable flair, while his sister and wife work the kitchen. L’Aquila d’Oro is famous for its extensive wine cellar, which is Tuti’s passion. While prices aren’t cheap the selection is extraordinary. Reservations are an absolute must, regardless of the season.

This delicious dinner provided a much-needed break from my hectic tasting schedule. A plate of shrimp wrapped in lardo, a specialty here,was delicious,as the flavors played off each other beautifully. The giant raviolo with a poached egg insidecovered the entire plate and was utterly hedonistic. My lamb chops were also quite flavorful, although the traditional presentation with accompanying vegetables came across as an element of the cuisine that could use a little updating. After an intense day of tasting Friuli’s great whites I was in a mood for a change. Vega-Sicilia’s 1987 Unico was in great shape. Still vibrant and fresh, the wine offered up an exotic array of spices, roasted coffee beans, leather, licorice and ripe dark fruit. This bottle provided about 30 minutes of superb drinking, after which it began to clamp down. While the 1987 is not regarded as a one of the most profound Unicos, it was nevertheless a privilege to catch a glimpse of this beautiful Spanish red.

Food:

Shrimp wrapped in lardo

Poached egg raviolo

Roasted lamb chops

Wine:            

1987   Vega-Sicilia Unico      92

--Antonio Galloni