Eleven Madison Park

11 Madison Ave

New York, NY 10010

Tel: (212) 889-0905

This was my first dinner since Eleven Madison Park and Executive Chef Daniel Humm reworked the menu. Guests are now offered two tasting menus, if that’s the right word for single words printed on a piece of paper. An a la carte dining option is no longer offered, which I have mixed feelings about. Sometimes it's good to know what to expect, but on the other hand the most thrilling meals I have had here have been those when I have left everything up to the kitchen. We opted for the larger tasting menu, and weren’t disappointed. All of the dishes were brilliant. The langoustine ceviche with celery showed Humm’s technical prowess in melding flavors and textures to create innovative, unusual combinations. The John Dory was cooked and seasoned to perfection. Both of the meat courses were delicious and beautifully executed. Service, as always, was impeccable from start to finish.

Roger Pouillon’s NV Fleur de Mareuil was a superb wine with which to start the evening. It revealed a gorgeous, layered personality with slight hints of burnished oxidation from vinfication in barrel that added complexity. Marie-Noëlle Ledru’s 2006 Cuvée du Goulté, a 100% Pinot Noir, showed the broad frame of Ambonnay in its warm, rich fruit and sheer weight. Both wines were wonderful.

Many of my most memorable wine experiences have been with aged white Burgundy, although choosing an older bottle today requires a bit of a leap of faith given all of the problems so many wines have had with premature oxidation. No worries here, though. The 1996 Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir from Roulot was beyond pristine. A subtle, haunting wine, the Mon Plaisir graced the palate with exquisite fruit, haunting aromatics  and a pure, crystalline finish. What a great bottle!

Huet’s 1985 Vouvray Le Clos du Bourg Moeulleux was a treat to taste. Exotic passion fruit, jasmine and white truffle wafted from the glass in this moderately sweet wine. Boxler’s 2005 Pinot Blanc Réserve reminded me of a schnaps distillery in its ethereal mirabelle, kirsch and pear aromas. The pointed fruit and hints of sweetness worked beautifully with the carrot course.

I was looking foward to drinking Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2001 Echézeaux, as it was wonderful a few weeks ago. Unfortunately this bottle, from my cellar, was corked. We had better luck with the 2001 Richebourg. This fabulous Burgundy needed quite a bit of air to open up, but when it did it was truly gorgeous. A brooding, inward wine, the Richebourg showed tons of depth in its dark red fruit, dried flowers and menthol, with firm tannins that literally took hold of the palate from start to finish. As good as it is now, the 2001 Richebourg really needs at least 5-10 years before it starts offering its finest drinking.

Food:

Halibut; dashi and seaweed lavash

Madia and king crab; basil mayonnaise and meyer lemon, braised salsify and golden pike roe

Sea urchin; panna cotta with apple and celery

Smoked sturgeon and caviar; sabayon with chive, fingerling potato and crème

fraiche black truffle beignet with black truffle remoulade

Langoustine; ceviche with celery, apple and lime

Carrot; roasted with dates, cumin and wheat berries

John Dory; slow cooked with black truffles and artichokes

Veal; blanquette with winter vegetables and smoked bone marrow

Lamb; roasted with vadouvan, lady apples and puntarella

Jasmine and Tangerine; jasmine sorbet, orange shortbread and cilantro

Chocolate; vacherin with passion fruit and mango

Mignardises

Wine:

NV	Roger Pouillon Fleur de Mareuil	92
2006	Marie-Noëlle Ledru Cuvée du Goulté	90
1996	Roulot Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir	92
1985	Huet Vouvray Le Clos du Bourg Moeulleux	93
2005	Boxler Pinot Blanc Réserve	90
2001	Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echézeaux	?
2001	Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg	94

 --Antonio Galloni