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Dom Pérignon: 2002-2006
A soft-spoken man of few words, Dom Pérignon’s longtime Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy is one of the most provocative figures in Champagne. For years, Geoffroy has quietly pushed the envelope at Dom Pérignon with a series of bold wines that have redefined what a Champagne grande marque is and can be. Between a bevy of strong new releases and a steady flow of ultra-rare and equally expensive late-disgorged releases from the P2 and P3 lines, there is little question Dom Pérignon is the most daring of the grande marques today.
As I have written here before, nowhere is the modern Dom Pérignon style more evident than in the Rosés, which are now made with riper fruit than in the past and with high percentages of still red Pinot that give the wines their distinctive vinosity. But Geoffroy has also challenged assumptions with the Dom Pérignon flagship, sometimes referred to as the ‘Blanc,’ by declaring vintages such as 2005 and, especially 2003, which are regarded as weaker than some of the more famous surrounding years. Perhaps most impressively of all, Dom Pérignon maintains an exceedingly high level of quality for a production that is said to be in excess of one million cases per year, although this is the house’s most closely guarded secret.
I recently sat down with Geoffroy to taste through a small vertical of Dom Pérignon going back to 2002. For the first time in the maison’s history, Dom Pérignon has released five successive vintages. This tasting provides a great opportunity to see how the 2006 compares to its older siblings and also check in on the 2002 and 2004, both now established as fabulous vintages at Dom Pérignon.
See all the wines (from youngest to oldest)
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- Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006 from Magnum (May 2014)
- A Look Back at the 2008 Barolos (May 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Mastroberardino's Taurasi Riserva (May 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino (May 2014)
- 2013 Champagne: The Vins Clairs (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: Chave Hermitage Vertical at Ristorante Morini, New York (May 2014)
- Le Macchiole: Paleo Rosso 1992-2012 (Apr 2014)
- Giacomo Conterno: Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia 2000-2010 (Mar 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Pavie Macquin (Mar 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)
- Fontodi: Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 1985-2010 (Feb 2014)
- 2013
- Piedmont’s Glorious 1989 and 1990 Vintages Revisited (Feb 2010)
- Mastroberardino – Defining the Greatness of Taurasi: 1928-2006 (Dec 2013)
- Antinori Solaia – A Complete Retrospective 1978-2010 (Dec 2013)
- Isole e Olena: Cabernet Sauvignon Collezione De Marchi 1986-2010 (Dec 2013)
- New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2013)
- Champagne – A Wine For All Seasons (Nov 2013)
- Borgo del Tiglio – A Study in Whites: 1982-2011 (Nov 2013)
- Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)
- 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Revisited (Sep 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Trimbach's Riesling Frederic Emile (Sep 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Zind-Humbrecht's Riesling Brand and Riesling Rangen (Sep 2013)
- San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo: The Essence of Gaiole Sangiovese (Aug 2013)
- Isole e Olena Cepparello: The Heart and Soul of Sangiovese (Aug 2013)
- Castello di Ama – Chianti Classico Bellavista: 1982-2007 (Aug 2013)
- Fontodi – Flaccianello and the Path to Greatness: 1981-2009 (Aug 2013)
- Montevertine Le Pergole Torte: A Sangiovese Icon (Aug 2013)
- Castellare I Sodi di San Niccolò: A Complete Retrospective 1979 – 2007 (Jul 2013)
- Castell’in Villa – An Icon Revisited: 1971-2007 (Jul 2013)
- Felsina – Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia: A Complete Retrospective 1983-2011 (Jul 2013)
- Cédric Bouchard: In the Cellar (Jun 2013)
- Castello di Ama: L’Apparita Retrospective 1985-2009 (Jun 2013)
- Focus on Grower Champagne (Jun 2013)
- Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)
- Kracher: A Brief Essay 2003-2010 (Jun 2013)
- Zenato Amarone – A Journey Across Three Decades (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Corton-Charlemagne 1973-1996 (Jun 2013)
- Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)
- Dosage Trials Chez Selosse (Mar 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Colgin Cellars' IX Estate Syrah Napa Valley (Mar 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Domaine Meo-Camuzet's Vosne-Romanee aux Brulees (Mar 2013)
- 2012
- The Best New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2012)
- 1978 Piemonte Retrospective at Eleven Madison Park (Nov 2012)
- Vintage Champagne (Nov 2012)
- Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Corison Winery's Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley (Sep 2012)
- Staring Into The Heart of Sangiovese (Jun 2012)
- The 2002 Burgundies at Eleven Madison Park (May 2012)
- 1982 Bordeaux at Age 30 (May 2012)
- Col d’Orcia: Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento 1982-2006 (May 2012)
- Piedmont Report: Checking in on the 2001 Baroli (Apr 2012)
- Masseto Vertical at A Voce Columbus (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Magdelaine (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau du Tertre (Jan 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)
- 2011
- Top New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2011)
- New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2011)
- New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)
- Vietti: Barolo Riserva Villero – A Complete Retrospective 1982-2004 (Aug 2011)
- Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)
- Vertical Tasting of Arietta Red Wine H Block Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley (Jun 2011)
- Checking in on Piedmont’s 2000 Vintage (Jun 2011)
- Le Pupille: A Complete Retrospective 1987-2007 (May 2011)
- Vertical Tasting of Il Poggione's Brunello di Montalcino (May 2011)
- Tenuta dell’Ornellaia: Masseto – A Complete Retrospective 1986-2008 (Apr 2011)
- Le Macchiole Messorio 1994-2006: A Study in Greatness (Feb 2011)
- 2010
- Bollinger: A Survey of the 2009 Vins Claires (Dec 2010)
- New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)
- Bruno Giacosa Dinner at Bar Boulud, New York (Oct 2010)
- Checking in on the 1996 Champagnes (Sep 2010)
- The Noble Wines of Southern Italy (Aug 2010)
- Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)
- Roederer’s 2009 Vins Claires (Jul 2010)
- Vinous Table: Dom Pérignon and Giacosa Verticals, Del Posto, New York (Jun 2010)
- Miani Redux – Calvari: 1995-2008 and a Preview of the 2009s (Jun 2010)
- Cédric Bouchard – Champagne Redefined (May 2010)
- Allegrini Amarone: 1982 – 2004 (Apr 2010)
- Tasca d’Almerita Rosso del Conte: 1979-2006 (Mar 2010)
- Dom Pérignon: No Guts, No Glory (Mar 2010)
- Roberto Voerzio – Past, Present and Future: 1988-2008 (Mar 2010)
- Vinous Table: 1964 Dom Pérignon, Giacosa's 1989s & 1990s, Del Posto, New York (Jan 2010)
- 2009
- Lupicaia: An Emerging Tuscan Thoroughbred (Dec 2009)
- Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)
- Champagne: The Last Frontier (Dec 2009)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2009)
- The Wines of Fausto Maculan: 1985-2007 (Oct 2009)
- A Survey of Michet: Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo 1967-2001 (Sep 2009)
- The Essence of Merlot: Miani 1994-2006 (Aug 2009)
- A Taste of Champagne at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jun 2009)
- Elio Altare: A Retrospective of Larigi 1985-2008 (May 2009)
- The Champagnes of André Beaufort (May 2009)
- Simply…..Dom Pérignon (Jan 2009)
- The 1996 Champagnes Revisited (Jan 2009)
- A Survey of Cristal: 1979-2002 (Jan 2009)
- 2008
- New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)
- Valdicava: Brunello di Montalcino 1988-2004 (Nov 2008)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)
- Soldera: Brunello di Montalcino 1977-2000 (Jul 2008)
- Poggio Scalette: Il Carbonaione 1992-2007 (Jul 2008)
- Thirty Years of Vietti: Barolo Rocche 1974-2004 (May 2008)
- Soldera Brunellos and 1979 Champagnes at Alto, New York (Apr 2008)
- Il Poggione: Brunello di Montalcino 1967-2001 (Apr 2008)
- 2007
- Granbussia Through the Decades: 1974-2001 (Nov 2007)
- New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)
- Massolino: A Journey Through Vigna Rionda 1982 - 2001 (Oct 2007)
- Cavallotto: The Re-Emergence of One of Barolo’s Historic Estates (Aug 2007)
- Podere Il Carnasciale: Il Caberlot 1988-2004 (May 2007)
- Tenuta di Trinoro: Tenuta di Trinoro 1997-2005 (Apr 2007)
- Tenuta dell’Ornellaia: Ornellaia and Masseto 1997-2004 (Mar 2007)
- 2006
- Champagne Update (Nov 2006)
- Giuseppe Mascarello Revisited: 1967 - 2001 (Oct 2006)
- The Wines of López de Heredia: 1954–1998 (Oct 2006)
- The Wines of Emidio Pepe: 1964 – 2001 (Oct 2006)
- Barolo 1999: The Forgotten Vintage (May 2006)
- Elio Altare Revisited: 1970 – 1991 (May 2006)
- Vintage Retrospective: The 1978 Barolos and Barbarescos (Jan 2006)
- 2005
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)
- Produttori del Barbaresco: The 1999 Riservas (Apr 2005)
- 2004
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)
- 2003
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)
- 2002
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)
- 1987 California Cabernets (Sep 2002)
- 1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)
- 2001
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)
- 2000
- Champagne for Everyone (Nov 2000)
- Two Vertical Tastings (Sep 2000)
- 1999
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)
- Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)
- 1998
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)
- Five California Verticals (Jul 1998)