Pol Roger: 2022 New Releases
BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 17, 2022
I was quite impressed with these new releases from Pol Roger. The 2013 Sir Winston Churchill is a superb Champagne in a superb vintage, but it should be that. I am more struck by the quality of the 2015s, Champagnes that deliver plenty of Pol Roget stylishness without the awkward edges that are such an issue throughout the region.
The 2015 Brut Vintage is a very pretty Champagne to drink now and over the next decade or so. Gentle hints of apricot, spice, dried flowers and baked apple tart lend quite a bit of nuance. There’s gorgeous vinous intensity to the 2015 accompanied by a whole range of citrus, floral and chalk overtones that emerge over time, adding brightness as well as cut. All the elements are so nicely balanced.
The 2015 Brut Blanc de Blancs marries textural intensity with a good deal of freshness. White pepper, dried herbs, chalk, mint and citrus make a strong opening impression. I especially like the energy and tension here, but there’s plenty of depth, too. I would give the 2015 a year or two in bottle, maybe more, as it is quite reticent in the early going. It, too, is seriously impressive.
The 2015 Brut Rosé is compelling. Far from an easygoing Champagne, the 2015 Rosé possesses striking depth and layers of fruit that open beautifully with a bit of time in the glass. Crushed flowers, raspberry, blood orange, mint and spice all run through a substantial, super-expressive Rosé from Pol Roger that is ideally suited to the dinner table.
The 2013 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is fabulous. Rich and remarkably pure, the 2013 is super-expressive right out of the gate. Bright saline notes cut through a core of lemon confit, dried flowers, apricot, tangerine peel, mint and sage. As compelling as the 2013 is, it really needs more time to open a bit. There is a feeling of transparency here that is so alluring. The 2013 is a terrific example of power with no excess weight in Champagne. I loved it.
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