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Grosjean Petite Arvine: 1997-2016
BY IAN D'AGATA | DECEMBER 10, 2019
Petite Arvine is a white grape that is one of Italy’s biggest success stories of the last 40 years. It was virtually unknown in the country prior to the 1990s, but there are now a bevy of outstanding wines made with this variety For example, Les Crêtes, Château Feuillet and especially the Grosjean family have had noteworthy success with it over the years.
The entrance to the Grosjean winery
The Grape Variety
In Switzerland’s Valais, an Arvine variety appears to have been documented back in 1602 under the name Arvena, believed to mean "upstart” or “new arrival." Petite Arvine is different from Grosse Arvine, which is considered to be a lesser-quality relative. In Switzerland the variety is used to produce both dry and sweet (flétri) wines; by contrast, no sweet wines are made with it in Italy. Those who champion Italian origin for the grape point to the fact that Petite Arvine’s name most likely derives from a Latin word indicating the Arve Valley of Savoy, a region that used to be Italian before it was sold to France; according to this view, the grape was imported from there into Valais by way of the Valle d'Aosta.
Barrels are found everywhere at the winery
Petite Arvine is probably a distant relative of Prié Blanc, Premetta and perhaps Chasselas. Viticulturally, it is a very resistant variety and a very late ripener (which makes it stand out among the Valle d’Aosta white grapes, as most are picked in September) and so southern exposures and sunny, warm years are best for it to achieve full physiological ripeness. However, in my opinion, Petite Arvine does not perform especially well in very hot years. The wines lose their enchanting aromatic freshness and minty white flower and orchard fruit aromas and flavors, to showcase instead slightly heavy-handed, blowsy tropical fruit notes. Furthermore, the grape’s booming popularity in the Valle d’Aosta (among both producers and consumers) has led to it being increasingly planted in less-than-ideal warmer flatland sites, where it tends to give tropical-accented, fat wines with even greater ease.
The Grosjean family
At 17 hectares (2010 data), Petite Arvine is the eighth most planted variety in the Valle d’Aosta. (The number of hectares may seem very small, but keep in mind that Petit Rouge is the region’s most planted variety, and it boasts only 74 hectares in total.)
The simple but functional interior of the winery
Grosjean’s Petite Arvine
Petite Arvine was first planted at Grosjean, in the early 1980s on highly sandy soils with a medium limestone content. The grapes have been organically farmed since 2011, and had to be irrigated for their first three years of life (drought is always a potential problem in the region). The vineyard sits at 550 meters above sea level and has a 70% slope, so the family needed to build terraces to carry out normal vineyard work and harvesting. Depending on the vintage, the grapes are normally picked in October. The wine is currently aged partly in steel and partly in oak (70% stainless steel and 30% used barriques), but vintages of the 1990s and early 2000s saw no oak aging whatsoever. In my experience, and unlike most excellent Swiss examples of Petite Arvine wines, Grosjean’s version has slightly less juicy acidity, less salinity and less obvious notes of pineapple and tropical fruit. Grosjean first made the wine in 1985 but used to call it simply “Petite Arvine” even though the grapes always came from the Rovettaz vineyard; starting with the 2004 or 2005 vintage (René Grosjean himself was not sure), the “Vigne Rovettaz” moniker was added to the wine’s full name upon the suggestion of Neil Rosenthal, the estate’s US importer. Today, Grosjean owns about two hectares of Petite Arvine and makes roughly 15,000 bottles a year.
A wonderful lineup of older and younger Petite Arvines from Grosjean
The wines in this report were tasted in May and August 2019 in Italy.
See the Wines from Youngest to Oldest
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- Ridge Monte Bello: Past, Present and Future (Jul 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: 2011 Miani Malvasia (Jul 2015)
- Beringer’s Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: One of Napa Valley’s First Cult Wines (Jul 2015)
- Italy: Odds & Ends (Jul 2015)
- Forman: Four Decades of Cabernet Sauvignon 1985-2012 (Jul 2015)
- Horizontal Tasting of Napa Valley’s 1994 Cabernets (Jul 2015)
- Horizontal Tasting of Napa Valley’s 2004 Cabernets (Jun 2015)
- Friuli: It Is What It Is, Part 1 (Jun 2015)
- Pride – Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical Tasting (Jun 2015)
- Vinous Event: 2010 Napa Valley at the NoMad Rooftop (Jun 2015)
- Looking at Italy Through Rosé Tinted Glasses: Cerasuolo, Rosato, Ramato and Chiaretto (Jun 2015)
- Blankiet: Proprietary Red 1999-2012 (May 2015)
- Roederer Cristal Rosé: A Journey Through Time 1976-2007 (May 2015)
- Vertical Tasting of Turley's Petite Syrah Hayne Vineyard (May 2015)
- Alto Adige: A Pause for Thought (May 2015)
- Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)
- Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill – A Complete Retrospective: 2000-2012 (Apr 2015)
- Sean Thackrey’s Orion: A Complete Retrospective (Apr 2015)
- A Half Century of Clos des Goisses: 1952-2004 (Mar 2015)
- Canalicchio di Sopra: Brunello di Montalcino 1970-2008 (Mar 2015)
- Biondi-Santi: The Epic Vintages 1955-1975 (Mar 2015)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)
- Germany: Ten Years After - 2004 Pinot Noir (Feb 2015)
- Germany: Ten Years After – 2004 Dry Riesling (Jan 2015)
- Noël Verset Cornas 1985-2006 (Jan 2015)
- Brovia – Barolo Rocche di Castiglione: 1982-2010 (Jan 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: 2009 Miani Sauvignon Saurint (Jan 2015)
- Soldera – Case Basse: Brunello di Montalcino 1981-2006 (Jan 2015)
- Vertical Tasting of Sadie Family Wines Columella (Jan 2015)
- Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)
- Germany Grand Cru Riesling: 2004-2013 (Dec 2014)
- 2014
- Vinous Table: Miramonti l’Altro, Lombardy, Italy (Dec 2014)
- Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Dec 2014)
- Six Decades of Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon: 1967-2012 (Jun 2014)
- Epic Dunn: Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 1979-1999 (Feb 2014)
- Gaja: Sorì San Lorenzo 1971-2011 (Nov 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Six Epic Monfortinos (Oct 2014)
- 1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1988-2004 (Sep 2014)
- 1999 Barolo: Brilliance, Intensity and Class (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: Locanda ’800, Verona, Italy (Aug 2014)
- Soldera: Brunello di Montalcino 1979-2006 (Aug 2014)
- Checking in on the 1999 Barbarescos (Aug 2014)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Focus on Grands-Échézeaux and Richebourg (Jul 2014)
- 1964 Leroy: Simply Timeless (Jul 2014)
- Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 1985-2006 (Jul 2014)
- 2003 Barolo: Ten Years Later (Jun 2014)
- Dalla Valle Maya: A Complete Retrospective 1988-2012 (June 2014)
- Four Decades of Champagne Salon and Delamotte: 1970-2004 (May 2014)
- 2010 Red Burgundy: Essays in Terroir (May 2014)
- A Look Back at the 2008 Barolos (May 2014)
- Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006 from Magnum (May 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Mastroberardino's Taurasi Riserva (May 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino (May 2014)
- Vinous Table: Chave Hermitage Vertical at Ristorante Morini, New York (May 2014)
- Le Macchiole: Paleo Rosso 1992-2012 (Apr 2014)
- Giacomo Conterno: Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia 2000-2010 (Mar 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Pavie Macquin (Mar 2014)
- Fontodi: Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 1985-2010 (Feb 2014)
- 2013
- Piedmont’s Glorious 1989 and 1990 Vintages Revisited (Feb 2010)
- Mastroberardino – Defining the Greatness of Taurasi: 1928-2006 (Dec 2013)
- Antinori Solaia – A Complete Retrospective 1978-2010 (Dec 2013)
- Isole e Olena: Cabernet Sauvignon Collezione De Marchi 1986-2010 (Dec 2013)
- Borgo del Tiglio – A Study in Whites: 1982-2011 (Nov 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso, Italy (Sep 2013)
- 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Revisited (Sep 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Zind-Humbrecht's Riesling Brand and Riesling Rangen (Sep 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Trimbach's Riesling Frederic Emile (Sep 2013)
- Isole e Olena Cepparello: The Heart and Soul of Sangiovese (Aug 2013)
- San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo: The Essence of Gaiole Sangiovese (Aug 2013)
- Castello di Ama – Chianti Classico Bellavista: 1982-2007 (Aug 2013)
- Fontodi – Flaccianello and the Path to Greatness: 1981-2009 (Aug 2013)
- Montevertine Le Pergole Torte: A Sangiovese Icon (Aug 2013)
- Castellare I Sodi di San Niccolò: A Complete Retrospective 1979 – 2007 (Jul 2013)
- Castell’in Villa – An Icon Revisited: 1971-2007 (Jul 2013)
- Felsina – Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia: A Complete Retrospective 1983-2011 (Jul 2013)
- Castello di Ama: L’Apparita Retrospective 1985-2009 (Jun 2013)
- Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)
- Kracher: A Brief Essay 2003-2010 (Jun 2013)
- Zenato Amarone – A Journey Across Three Decades (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Corton-Charlemagne 1973-1996 (Jun 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Colgin Cellars' IX Estate Syrah Napa Valley (Mar 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Domaine Meo-Camuzet's Vosne-Romanee aux Brulees (Mar 2013)
- 2012
- 1978 Piemonte Retrospective at Eleven Madison Park (Nov 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Corison Winery's Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley (Sep 2012)
- Staring Into The Heart of Sangiovese (Jun 2012)
- The 2002 Burgundies at Eleven Madison Park (May 2012)
- Col d’Orcia: Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento 1982-2006 (May 2012)
- 1982 Bordeaux at Age 30 (May 2012)
- Piedmont Report: Checking in on the 2001 Baroli (Apr 2012)
- Masseto Vertical at A Voce Columbus (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Magdelaine (Mar 2012)
- The Red Wines of Northeast Italy (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau du Tertre (Jan 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)
- 2011
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)
- The Best New White Wines from Italy's Northeast (Sep 2011)
- Vietti: Barolo Riserva Villero – A Complete Retrospective 1982-2004 (Aug 2011)
- Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)
- Checking in on Piedmont’s 2000 Vintage (Jun 2011)
- Vertical Tasting of Arietta Red Wine H Block Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley (Jun 2011)
- Le Pupille: A Complete Retrospective 1987-2007 (May 2011)
- Vertical Tasting of Il Poggione's Brunello di Montalcino (May 2011)
- Tenuta dell’Ornellaia: Masseto – A Complete Retrospective 1986-2008 (Apr 2011)
- Le Macchiole Messorio 1994-2006: A Study in Greatness (Feb 2011)
- 2010
- Bruno Giacosa Dinner at Bar Boulud, New York (Oct 2010)
- The Noble Wines of Southern Italy (Aug 2010)
- Vinous Table: Dom Pérignon and Giacosa Verticals, Del Posto, New York (Jun 2010)
- Miani Redux – Calvari: 1995-2008 and a Preview of the 2009s (Jun 2010)
- Allegrini Amarone: 1982 – 2004 (Apr 2010)
- Tasca d’Almerita Rosso del Conte: 1979-2006 (Mar 2010)
- Roberto Voerzio – Past, Present and Future: 1988-2008 (Mar 2010)
- Vinous Table: 1964 Dom Pérignon, Giacosa's 1989s & 1990s, Del Posto, New York (Jan 2010)
- 2009
- Lupicaia: An Emerging Tuscan Thoroughbred (Dec 2009)
- Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)
- Vinous Table: La Rei, Serralunga d'Alba, Italy (Nov 2009)
- The Wines of Fausto Maculan: 1985-2007 (Oct 2009)
- A Survey of Michet: Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo 1967-2001 (Sep 2009)
- The Essence of Merlot: Miani 1994-2006 (Aug 2009)
- Elio Altare: A Retrospective of Larigi 1985-2008 (May 2009)
- Vinous Table: L’Oste Scuro, Verona, Italy (Apr 2009)
- The 1996 Champagnes Revisited (Jan 2009)
- A Survey of Cristal: 1979-2002 (Jan 2009)
- 2008
- Valdicava: Brunello di Montalcino 1988-2004 (Nov 2008)
- Vinous Table: Ristorante Cracco, Milan, Italy (Sep 2008)
- Soldera: Brunello di Montalcino 1977-2000 (Jul 2008)
- Poggio Scalette: Il Carbonaione 1992-2007 (Jul 2008)
- Thirty Years of Vietti: Barolo Rocche 1974-2004 (May 2008)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Trieste, Italy (May 2008)
- Vinous Table: L’Aquila d’Oro, Dolegna Del Collio, Italy (May 2008)
- Vinous Table: Al Cacciatore - La Subida, Friulu, Italy (Apr 2008)
- Soldera Brunellos and 1979 Champagnes at Alto, New York (Apr 2008)
- Il Poggione: Brunello di Montalcino 1967-2001 (Apr 2008)
- Vinous Table: Le Dune, Friuli (Apr 2008)
- The Best Whites from Italy's Northeast (Mar 2008)
- 2007
- Vinous Table: Guido da Costigliole, San Maurizio, Italy (Nov 2007)
- Granbussia Through the Decades: 1974-2001 (Nov 2007)
- Massolino: A Journey Through Vigna Rionda 1982 - 2001 (Oct 2007)
- Vinous Table: Al Cacciatore - La Subida, Friuli, Italy (Sep 2007)
- Vinous Table: Al Campiello, Friuli (Sep 2007)
- Vinous Table: Locanda nel Borgo Antico, Barolo, Italy (Aug 2007)
- Cavallotto: The Re-Emergence of One of Barolo’s Historic Estates (Aug 2007)
- Podere Il Carnasciale: Il Caberlot 1988-2004 (May 2007)
- Vinous Table: Da Cesare, Piedmont, Italy (Apr 2007)
- Tenuta di Trinoro: Tenuta di Trinoro 1997-2005 (Apr 2007)
- Tenuta dell’Ornellaia: Ornellaia and Masseto 1997-2004 (Mar 2007)
- 2006
- Dinner at Home with Le Macchiole (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: Le Calandre, Padova, Italy (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: Villa De Winckels, Verona, Italy (Dec 2006)
- Giuseppe Mascarello Revisited: 1967 - 2001 (Oct 2006)
- The Wines of López de Heredia: 1954–1998 (Oct 2006)
- The Wines of Emidio Pepe: 1964 – 2001 (Oct 2006)
- Vinous Table: Da Cesare, Piedmont, Italy (Sep 2006)
- Barolo 1999: The Forgotten Vintage (May 2006)
- Elio Altare Revisited: 1970 – 1991 (May 2006)
- Focus on Northeast Italy (Mar 2006)
- Vintage Retrospective: The 1978 Barolos and Barbarescos (Jan 2006)
- 2005
- Produttori del Barbaresco: The 1999 Riservas (Apr 2005)
- 2004
- Best of the Alto-Adige and Trentino (Jul 2004)
- 2002
- 1987 California Cabernets (Sep 2002)
- 1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)
- 2000
- Two Vertical Tastings (Sep 2000)
- 1999
- Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)
- 1998
- Five California Verticals (Jul 1998)