La Fontaine De Mars

129 Rue Saint-Dominique

75007 Paris, France

Tel. +33 (01) 47 05 46 44

lafontainedemars@maisonboudon.com

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | AUGUST 14, 2026

The Food:

Country Ham & Melon

Burrata; Tomato Salad

Seared Chicken Breast; Morel Mushroom, Morel Cream Sauce & Baked Rice

Seared Top of the Beef Loin, French Fries & Béarnaise Sauce

The Wine:

2018 Clos Rougeard Saumur Champigny Les Poyeux                   94

Readers in search of a classic bistro on Paris’s Left Bank will want to check out La Fontaine De Mars. Located near the Eiffel Tower, La Fontaine De Mars opened in 1908. The restaurant is part of Maison Boudon, which operates several restaurants, including L’Alma, also on the Left Bank, where we enjoyed a delicious dinner a few years ago.

La Fontaine De Mars offers a super-classic old Paris vibe. Sidewalk tables are perfect for those who want to people-watch, while the indoor areas are a bit quieter and more elegant. On this night, the room is packed with a mix of tourists and locals. We are seated next to someone who lives around the corner, has been coming here for decades and addresses the waiters by name. It’s that kind of place.

Country Ham & Melon.

Seasonal specials listed on a chalkboard complement a selection of traditional bistro fare. The wine menu is surprisingly good for a restaurant of this level. There are some lovely Champagnes and wines by the glass. The Bordeaux section is quite strong, something I don’t see too often these days, with an intriguing mix of second labels and Grand Vins. I spot Clos Rougeard’s 2018 Les Poyeux. I can’t resist, as these wines have been on my mind quite a bit of late, starting with a visit to the domaine late last year and then a masterclass I moderated with Winemaker Cyril Chirouze at the latest Vinous Icons in February 2026.

The 2018 Saumur Champigny Les Poyeux is gorgeous, perhaps a bit on the richer side, but compelling just the same. It’s served at the perfect temperature, which is rare. In this warm vintage, the Poyeux exalts fruit over aromatics at the outset, but over time Cabernet Franc notes become more prominent. The 2018 is a dark, texturally rich Poyeux that is quite versatile at the table. Shades of black-toned fruit, dried herbs, mocha and a kiss of spice round things out beautifully. 

The summer of 2026 will be remembered for several brutal heat episodes. We arrive on the first bearable day at the end of a heat wave, so we lean towards some of the lighter appetizers on the menu. While certainly not typical French cuisine, both appetizers are delicious and a welcome break from the heavier French food we’ve had the few days prior.

Country Ham and Melon is as simple as it gets, and also perfect for a balmy summer evening where the appetite is a bit attenuated. The ham is thinly sliced and salty, while the melon is perfectly ripe. What could be better? Not much, in my book. The burrata, served over juicy tomatoes, is another refreshing, light dish perfectly suited to the occasion. 

Burrata; Tomato Salad.

Seared Chicken Breast with Morel Mushrooms is a signature. It is perhaps a bit late in the season for morels, but I adore them, so this is an obvious choice. It’s a wonderful dish, beautifully executed, the aromatics of the morels a surprisingly great match for the perfume of Cabernet Franc. I am happy. Seared Beef Loin with French Fries and Béarnaise Sauce is as classic as classic gets. The beef is cooked and seasoned to perfection. Fries and Béarnaise is another match made in heaven. We pass on dessert, which I later regret. For that, there’s next time.

Seared Chicken Breast; Morel Mushroom, Morel Cream Sauce & Baked Rice.

Paris can be a challenging city. Dining choices are virtually limitless, and the pace of change can be quite fast in some of the trendier spots, which makes it hard to stay current. I have had many great meals in Paris over the years. But if I ask the logical next question — where would I like to go back? — that list is very small. La Fontaine De Mars represents timelessness and classicism, two values I hold very dear. Readers in search of a classic, authentic Parisian dining experience will find that here. And yes, it’s on my list for a return visit. 

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