Rowayton Seafood

89 Rowayton Ave

Norwalk, CT 06853

+1 (203) 866-4488

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | AUGUST 22, 2025

The Food:

Spicy Tuna Tartare; Cucumber, Sesame, Soy, Wasabi, Toasted Rice, Papadum

Heirloom Tomato & Burrata Salad; Balsamic Marinated Tomatoes, Prosciutto, Basil, Balsamic Reduction

Salmon Crispy Rice; Siracha Aioli; Crispy Shallots; Soy

Fried Montauk Calamari

Lobster Roll; Brioche Bun, Choice of Fries, Chips or Salad

RS Burger

Clams & Linguini; Garlic Butter White Wine Sauce, Chili Flakes, Pancetta

Miso Marinated Cod; White, Rice, Mushroom Broth, Edamame, Pickled Carrots

Seafood Paella; Shrimp, Mussels, Clams, Calamari, English Peas, Roasted Red Pepper

Flourless Chocolate Molten Cake

The Wine:

2022 Domaine Rémi Jobard Meursault Sous la Velle                    91

Rowayton is one of the quaint, idyllic, seaside towns on the Connecticut coast that comes alive in the summer. Proprietor Kevin Conroy purchased his seafood market, once the oldest running Lobster Cooperative on the Long Island Sound, in 1978. He later acquired the adjoining restaurant in 1996 on the way to building a collection of shops and restaurants that offer a slice of coastal living.

Spicy Tuna Tartare; Cucumber, Sesame, Soy, Wasabi, Toasted Rice, Papadum.

Rowayton Seafood serves a mix comfort classics and more modern dishes in a bustling but welcoming environment. The tiny bar is always packed with a mix of locals and visitors. There are several dining spaces, leading from the bar to an indoor room, an extension on the terrace and then the outdoor area. I prefer eating outside, ideally at one of the tables with views of the docks, nearby homes and the gorgeous summer light as late afternoon melts into evening. On the right night, dinner here is magical.

Heirloom Tomato & Burrata Salad; Balsamic Marinated Tomatoes, Prosciutto, Basil, Balsamic Reduction.

The list is surprisingly good for a restaurant that, on the surface, might not seem like a place where wine is taken seriously. Most of the selections are from the United States, with plenty of options that are perfectly suited to the food. Alternatively, corkage is offered at a modest $40p per bottle for guests who want to bring wines from home.

Lobster Roll; Brioche Bun, Choice of Fries, Chips or Salad.

We start with the obligatory Aperol Spritz. The mood is set. Spicy Tuna Tartare is a delicious appetizer to share. The only problem is fighting over the papadum. Heirloom Tomato & Burrata Salad is another fine summer starter. Ideally, I would like to see the prosciutto sliced a bit thinner and the dressing be a touch lighter, both of which would elevate this dish, but it’s still delicious. Fried Montauk Calamari and Salmon Crispy Rice disappear within moments of hitting the table.  

Rémi Jobard’s 2022 Meursault Sous la Velle is terrific. Bright and refreshing, it is an ideal warm-weather wine to drink with this cuisine. White orchard fruit, mint, jasmine and clean saline notes abound. What a total delight.

Few things are more evocative of summer on the coast than a Lobster Roll. At Rowayton, Seafood guests can choose between warm (Connecticut style) and cold (Maine style) versions. I always go for cold, as it reminds me of childhood summers spent in Maine, where I was first introduced to this American classic. The RS Burger is not the most adventurous dish on the menu, but it is delicious and a fine choice for those who don’t want to eat fish.

Miso Marinated Cod; White, Rice, Mushroom Broth, Edamame, Pickled Carrots.

Clams & Linguini overfill a large bowl. I wonder how anyone can eat this entire dish on their own. The presentation is a bit rustic, and yet the flavors are excellent. I would prefer the pasta cooked a bit less, but I also realize that is probably not most people’s taste. The Miso Marinated Cod is a much more refined creation. All the elements on the plate work so well together. Superb. The Seafood Paella is one of the best dishes I have ever had at Rowayton Seafood. It, too, is abundant, easily enough for two hungry diners. Bold, deep and flavorful, the paella is a huge hit. I would order it again in a second.

We never have much room for dessert here, as the food is so satisfying. The Flourless Chocolate Molten Cake is a fine choice for those with a sweet tooth. It’s pretty hard to beat comfort food, especially when it is well done.

Flourless Chocolate Molten Cake.

Rowayton Seafood is a must for readers in search of elevated dining in the Greenwich/Stamford/Norwalk corridor. Guests who are so inclined can reserve a boat slip in advance. Be sure to check out the seafood market and Pearl, an old oyster boat Conroy refurbished that can be rented for private parties. Reservations for the restaurant are essential.

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