2017 Domaine des Miroirs (Kenjiro Kagami) Vin de France Entre Deux Bleus


Earlier this year, I dined at a small but well-respected restaurant whose wine list was so saturated with below-market-price gems that I decided it was not in anyone’s interest to write it up as a Vinous Table. You just need to look at the “wastelands” that are wine lists around Beaune to see what happens. I want people to discover the restaurant like I did. Indeed, if anyone mentions that they will be in the vicinity, I discretely encourage them to head in its direction. But I will mention the wine ordered on this particular evening.

The Domaine des Miroirs 2017 Entre Deux Bleus is from one of the most cultish producers not just in the Jura, but in France. Japanese winemaker Kenjiro Kagami, whose surname means mirror in Japanese, worked with Thierry Allemand and Ganevat before establishing his namesake winery in 2011. Working just four hectares outside the village of Grusse, Kagami soon became the poster boy of the rising natural wine movement. His Entre Deux Mers comes from 60-year-old Savagnin vines, direct pressed and aged for 24 months in used oak barrels with no sulfur added and minimal topping. Pale amber, slightly burnished in color, it has a complex nose: hazelnut, lemon/orange rind and smoked walnuts, the oxidative element present but not overpowering, a flor-like tinge in the background. It actually gains delineation in the glass. The palate is balanced, with the oxidation nicely controlled again, fresh and tangy with Seville orange marmalade. Its nutty elements come to the fore toward the finish. Do I think it is worth the €2,000 that I have seen in one shop? No. But at little over €100, it’s a thoughtfully crafted Savagnin that deftly balances its oxidative component, upholding sensory pleasure rather than making a political statement about its winemaking. 92/Drink 2023-2033.

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