1992 Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py


Beaujolais Nouveau fomented an assumption that the region’s wine cannot age. Humbug! It’s more a case that too few wine connoisseurs have the nous to tuck away a few Beaujolais bottles from its finest appellations such as Morgon or Moulin-à-Vent from its finest growers.

Gamay can mature extremely well, though sadly I have had only few occasions to taste bottles myself. So, when Jean-Marc Burgaud offered to open a few older wines, I leapt at the chance. I will save some notes for a forthcoming Beaujolais report, but I will highlight this bottle, a significant one, since it marked Burgaud’s maiden Côte du Py almost at the beginning of his career. This came after I had mischievously asked him to pull out a bottle from a difficult growing season. In 1992 there was both a large crop and it had rained through the picking, so we are not talking about a legendary Beaujolais vintage here, quite the opposite. The 1992 Morgon Côte du Py shows a little funk upon opening, but that dissipates within 20 minutes to reveal a winsome red cherry, wilted rose petal nose, not intense but delicate and charming. The palate is beautifully balanced and demonstrates no sign of rot, fully mature with red cherries, white pepper, tea leaf and bay leaf. Acidity stitches this Morgon together, maintaining freshness and showing impressive persistence on the slightly faded yet still enjoyable finish. Approaching three decades, the 1992 has survived splendidly but as I shall report soon, there are other vintages that have aged even better. 90/Drink 2021-2029.