Cellar Favorite: 1983 Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese

BY NEAL MARTIN | AUGUST 11, 2025

I remember tasting the 1983 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese from Joh. Jos. Prüm a few years ago in Burgundy. A Mosel maven tipped me off that the 1983 was a hallowed, highly sought-after wine, and tasting it, it was immediately apparent why. Another bottle was opened in Austria preceding a recent Château Lafleur vertical. This Auslese has lost none of its lustre. Slightly burnished in hue, it nevertheless appears youthful, especially considering it is now over four decades old. The bouquet is Riesling in excelsis! Honeysuckle intermixed with lemon verbena, hints of melted wax and pressed white flowers are all delivered with exquisite delineation and focus. The palate follows suit with a killer line of acidity that imbues this Riesling with so much tension and vitality.

The 1983 is a more textural Auslese than one with obvious fruit flavours. There is weight in the mouth and a slightly resinous texture. Hints of peach skin and desiccated apricot emerge with aeration. Perhaps with age, this comes across as an Auslese on the lower side of residual sugar for the category. It feels so effortless, exuding everything great about Riesling, about the Mosel, about JJ Prüm. 96/Drink 2025-2050.

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