2022 Kei Shiogai Bourgogne Blanc

BY NEAL MARTIN | JULY 29, 2024

A couple of years ago, I ordered the maiden Kei Shiogai 2020 Bourgogne Blanc En Pellans from a restaurant list, as members of the fourth estate are persona non grata at the winery in Beaune. I was interested. Sadly, the bottle left me indifferent. We eventually ordered another white and left Shiogai’s undrunk. Based on Shiogai’s reaction, which I was privy to, it seems like my tasting note did not go down particularly well. I understand the reaction, but I believe that all wines should be open to evaluation, especially those with high price tags and no established reputation. Rarity doesn’t necessarily taste of anything.

So, when dining in Chablis recently, I decided to try another bottle. I don’t bear any grudges or agendas. It would get fair treatment. Let’s not beat about the bush: €100 for a Bourgogne Blanc would be considered over-priced in the eyes of many, merely compounding the Côte d’Or’s image as a region whose fruit only ferments for the wealthy. Interestingly, I notice a message printed on the label that reads: “Ce vin est destiné à être vendu au prix final de 90 Euros”. I’ve never seen that before. How should that be interpreted?

1. Pity him. Unfortunately, if you buy fruit in Burgundy, you are at the mercy of sellers’ prices.

Does the winemaker believe his wine is worth more than those of other reputable, hard-working winemakers, who each have their own costs to cover and families to feed?

2. Applaud him for trying to stifle speculation?

I could turn that statement around. It could also read: “This wine should be sold for €10 more than 2016 Chablis Mont de Milieu from Domaine Raveneau” since that was the choice I had on this evening.

It is up to customers how they spend their money. My job is to give a frank appraisal of wine, so I take my first sip…

The 2022 Bourgogne Blanc is impressive. This has far more delineation and precision than the 2020 En Pellans, armed with almost imperceptible reduction that seems to fire up the aromatics. Scents of orange blossom, lime and crushed stone soar from the glass. The palate is very well-defined thanks to its razor-sharp acidity and just the right amount of bitterness to get the saliva flowing. I might have finished the bottle if I had not scheduled numerous visits in Chablis the following day. You could argue that it is easy to make 435 bottles at this level when, as a micro-négociant, you are just buying fruit. But I judge quality, not rarity. Even though this is a mere regional white and delicious right at this moment, it contains the nascent energy to merit aging over the next 10 years. 91/Drink 2024-2034.

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