2001 Weingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Auslese *** Goldkapsel


Klaus-Peter Keller’s wines have become collector catnip in recent years, with prices to match. It seems a long time since I made my only visit to the estate. In 2022, I was fortunate to taste several recent vintages and almost forgot this mature gem.

This bottle of 2001 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Auslese *** Goldkapsel completes a spectacular private dinner in suitable fashion. Limpid in colour, the bouquet is almost transcendental with copious scents of quince and Clementine, melting candle wax and honeysuckle. Fabulous delineation. The palate does not disappoint with acidity as sharp as a Samurai sword, breath-taking purity and almost overwhelming intensity. With notes of citrus peel, pineapple and mandarin, this is a Riesling plugged into the mainline electricity. It feels like it is reaching its lofty peak now, but God knows how many years it will continue to thrive. Stellar. 98/Drink 2023-2055.

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