Cellar Favorite: 2022 António Madeira Branco Vinhas Velhas

BY NEAL MARTIN | MAY 12, 2025

I vividly recall a bottle of António Madeira’s 2017 Branco Vinhas Velhas I encountered five or six years ago. It was a revelation in terms of what white Portuguese wine can achieve. On a recent return to Solar dos Presuntos, Lisbon’s go-to restaurant for any wine-lover, I ordered Madeira’s 2022 Branco Vinhas Velhas. Our sommelier grinned, knowing the treat in store. Once again,  I was blown away.

This flagship white comes from parcels of vines in the Dão region that exceed 80 years of age, a blend that includes Siria, Fernão Pires, Bical, Encruzado and Cerceal. Around 15% is aged in French oak, with the rest done in stainless steel. The 2022 presents silvery glints in the glass as the bouquet explodes with intense mineral-driven Japanese yuzu, limoncello and quince aromas, all neatly wrapped up in a nuanced veil of reduction. It has scintillating delineation and evokes images of freshly shucked oyster shells and sea cave. The palate is just as arresting, brimming with energy and tension. Again, there is a subtle reduction at play, one that would make Jean-François Coche proud. There is so much depth of flavour here. That marine theme continues, with notes of tangerine and yuzu on the finish. The only negative? I spent the rest of my time in Lisbon desperately searching for another bottle to buy to no avail! This is as good as any white Burgundy Premier Cru you want to put in front of me, and likewise, whilst it dishes out pleasure, it will evolve over the next 12 to 15 years. 95/Drink 2025-2040.