Cellar Favorite: 2019 Royal Tokaji Releases

BY NEAL MARTIN | NOVEMBER 9, 2026

I wish this historic Hungarian sweet wine were more widely known and consumed. I recently tasted the latest releases from the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, which I then discussed with Head Winemaker Zoltán Kovács. Our conversation began with Kovács describing the current 2026 season as “a bit hopeless,” with less than 200 millimetres of rainfall. The persistent dry conditions are not exactly what you need to create aszú-affected berries. Still, the season is not completely over.

Regarding the 2019 vintage from which these new releases came, Kovács told me that the season was hot and rainy with plenty of precipitation early in the year, though August and early September stayed dry. Rain in late September was the catalyst for a botrytis infection that spread quickly through the Furmint bunches, although less so in Hárslevelű since its looser clusters retard botrytis infection. Consequently, the 2019s lean much more heavily on Furmint. In some cuvées, such as Mézes Mály and, for the first time, Betsek, there is no Hárslevelű at all. Picking lasted for around one month due to further showers on November 1. Overall, there were fewer aszú berries compared to other growing seasons. The wines were fermented in barrel directly after pressing, then matured in 30% new oak, which was a slightly lower proportion than in 2017 and upcoming vintages.

Royal Tokaji's sprawling vineyards.

It is always fascinating to compare these single-site bottlings. In 2019, I was most taken by the Mézes Mály, which is a touch more complex and harmonious than its siblings. Nipping at its heels is the Szt. Tamás, thanks to its wonderful purity. These wines can be consumed right away if desired, and don’t forget that once opened, they keep for a number of days in the refrigerator if you pop the cork back in. They will age well for a number of years, though the payback is not quite as high as German Riesling or Sauternes. Readers should note that there will be a bottling of Essencia in 2019 to be released at a later date.