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Focus on Barbera and Dolcetto
In Italy Piedmont region, the locals drink dolcetto and barbera on a daily basis, reserving their more serious nebbiolo wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, for special occasions. Dolcetto and barbera are among the most flexible, food-friendly reds made anywhere, and although prices for some special cuvees have risen sharply in recent years, these are still mostly moderately priced wines with outgoing personalities and considerable early appeal. Thanks to the Piedmont's unprecedented string of warm harvests in recent years, and continued improvements in winemaking, the market is now flooded with excellent barberas and dolcettos.As a rule, dolcetto is easygoing, supple and intensely fruity, best suited for consumption within two or three years after release. Dolcetto is an early-ripening grape with generally low levels of acidity but no shortage of tannins, picked by producers a good two or three weeks before they begin bringing in their barbera and nebbiolo. Barbera is generally leaner and more penetrating, relying almost entirely on its acidity, rather than its tannins, for structure. Barbera is the more serious wine, and competition among quality-conscious estates has motivated producers to reduce barbera crop levels in order to make riper, more concentrated wines. Stronger raw materials, in turn, have allowed an increasing number of producers to age these wines in small French oak barrels, which can give the wines more structure and spice and often have the effect of buffering their bracing acidity. Where the underlying material is not sufficiently strong, the result can simply be dry, overoaked wines. But when the barbera comes from a top site and the grapes are thoroughly ripe, the use of barriques can make utterly satisfying wines, some of which will develop in bottle for a decade or more.
Recent vintages. Barbera needs a balmy early fall or a dry, late harvest for the acids to descend to manageable levels. The freakishly warm early autumn of 1997 provided a crop of barberas that most locals, as well as international fans of these wines, consider among the greatest of the last generation. Then followed '98 and '99, two more unusually warm and successful harvests for the Piedmont, as well as outstanding years for barbera.
Dolcetto is a more delicate grape than barbera. Drought conditions can easily prevent the fruit from ripening properly, while unusually cool September nights, which help the late-ripening nebbiolo and barbera build sugars slowly while retaining acidity, can quickly cause the dolcetto vines to drop their bunches. But 1999, according to most growers in the region, brought near-perfect conditions for this grape variety. Most of the dolcetti noted below are from this spectactular vintage. If you're not familiar with dolcetto, there will never be a more propitious moment to become acquainted with these wines than with the currently arriving '99s.
My tastings below are limited primarily to wines from Barolo and Barbaresco producers, but there are also a number of examples from appellations outside Alba (e.g., Dolcetto di Dogliani, Barbera d'Asti). The bulk of these tastings took place during my tour of the Piedmont in September (including several wines not yet bottled; ranges, rather than precise scores, are provided for these wines), but I followed up by tasting another 120 or so finished wines in New York in recent weeks. Due to the sheer number of successful bottles I found, notes are provided only for those wines I rated 87 points or higher.
Show all the wines (sorted by score)
Producers in this Article
- Albino Rocca
- Armando Parusso
- Ascheri
- Azelia
- Bartolo Mascarello
- Brovia
- Bruno Giacosa
- Bruno Rocca
- Cascina Ballarin
- Cascina Bongiovanni
- Cascina La Ghersa
- Ceretto
- Claudio Alario
- Conterno-Fantino
- Cordero di Montezemolo
- De Forville
- Domenico Clerico
- Elio Altare
- E. Pira & Figli
- Eraldo Viberti
- Filippo Gallino
- F.lli Cigliuti
- Francesco Boschis
- Franco Boasso
- Fratelli Grasso
- Fratelli Revello
- Giacomo Conterno
- Giacomo Grimaldi
- Gianfranco Alessandria
- Gianni Voerzio
- Giorgio Pelissero
- Giovanni Corino
- Giovanni Manzone
- Giuseppe Mascarello & Figlio
- La Morandina
- La Spinetta
- Luciano Sandrone
- Luigi Pira
- Marcarini
- Matteo Correggia
- Mauro Veglio
- Michele Chiarlo
- Moccagatta
- Monchiero Carbone
- Montaribaldi
- Monti
- Paitin
- Paolo Scavino
- Pio Cesare
- Podere Rocche dei Manzoni
- Poderi Aldo Conterno
- Poderi Luigi Einaudi
- Prunotto
- Renato Ratti
- Roberto Voerzio
- Seghesio
- Silvio Grasso
- Sottimano
- Tenuta Carretta
- Vietti
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- 2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)
- 2009
- Vinous Table: Ristorante Bovio, La Morra, Italy (Nov 2009)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2009)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)
- Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2009)
- Austria 2008: Rising to the Challenge (Nov 2009)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2009)
- Piedmont Comes Of Age (Oct 2009)
- A Survey of Michet: Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo 1967-2001 (Sep 2009)
- 2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)
- New Zealand Sauvignon and Pinot (Sep 2009)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2009)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2009)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2009)
- Chablis 2008 and 2007 (Jul 2009)
- 2004 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2009)
- Ian D'Agata on the Best Wines of Central Italy (Jul 2009)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2009)
- Elio Altare: A Retrospective of Larigi 1985-2008 (May 2009)
- The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)
- Bordeaux '08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2009)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2009)
- Produttori del Barbaresco: 1978-1996 (Apr 2009)
- Barolo 2005: Location, Location, Location (Apr 2009)
- The Best New Wines from Chile (Mar 2009)
- 2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)
- Focus on South Africa (Mar 2009)
- Checking in on the 1998 Barolos (Feb 2009)
- The Best New Wines from Argentina (Jan 2009)
- 2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)
- Joel Payne on Germany 2007 (Jan 2009)
- 2008
- 1967 Piedmont….and White Truffles (Dec 2008)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2008)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)
- Alsace 2007 and 2006 (Nov 2008)
- Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2008)
- Austria 2007: Light, Fresh and Classic (Nov 2008)
- New Releases from Piedmont (Oct 2008)
- New Zealand Sauvignon and Pinot (Sep 2008)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2008)
- 2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2008)
- Piedmont’s Legendary 1978 Barolos and Barbarescos Redux (Aug 2008)
- 2007 and 2006 Chablis (Jul 2008)
- The Best Wines of Southern Italy (Jul 2008)
- 2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)
- 2003 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2008)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2008)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2008)
- Thirty Years of Vietti: Barolo Rocche 1974-2004 (May 2008)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2008)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2008)
- 2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)
- The Best Whites from Italy's Northeast (Mar 2008)
- 2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)
- The Best New Wines from Chile (Mar 2008)
- Focus on Argentina (Jan 2008)
- Germany 2006: An Unusual Auslese Year (Jan 2008)
- 2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)
- 2007
- A First Look at the 2004 Barolos (Dec 2007)
- Granbussia Through the Decades: 1974-2001 (Nov 2007)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)
- Austria '06: The Year of Gruner Veltliner (Nov 2007)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2007)
- New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)
- Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2007)
- First Annual Nebbiolo and White Truffle Charity Dinner (Nov 2007)
- Piedmont Report (Oct 2007)
- Massolino: A Journey Through Vigna Rionda 1982 - 2001 (Oct 2007)
- 2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2007)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2007)
- New Zealand Pinot and Sauvignon (Sep 2007)
- Cavallotto: The Re-Emergence of One of Barolo’s Historic Estates (Aug 2007)
- Ian D'Agata on Chianti, Carmignano and Montepulciano (Jul 2007)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)
- Alsace's 2005 Vintage (Jul 2007)
- 2006 and 2005 Chablis (Jul 2007)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2007)
- A Conversation with Domenico Clerico (May 2007)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2007)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2007)
- 2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)
- New Releases from Piedmont: Dolcetto 2005 and Barbera 2003/2004 (Apr 2007)
- Focus on South Africa (Mar 2007)
- Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume and Muscadet (Mar 2007)
- 2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)
- Joel Payne on Germany 2005 (Jan 2007)
- New Releases from California (Jan 2007)
- 2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)
- 2006
- 2005 and 2004 Chablis (Nov 2006)
- Champagne Update (Nov 2006)
- 2004 Alsace Wines (Nov 2006)
- Peter Moser on Austria 2005 (Nov 2006)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2006)
- Giuseppe Mascarello Revisited: 1967 - 2001 (Oct 2006)
- Italy’s 2001 Barolo and 2001 and 2003 Barbaresco vintages (Oct 2006)
- Paolo Scavino: A Major Retrospective (Oct 2006)
- Vinous Table: Centro Storico, Piedmont (Sep 2006)
- Focus on California's Central Coast (Sep 2006)
- New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2006)
- 2004 White Burgundies (Sep 2006)
- The Best New Wines from Spain (Sep 2006)
- 2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)
- 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2006)
- 2005 White Burgundies (Jul 2006)
- New Releases from Australia (Jul 2006)
- Barolo 1999: The Forgotten Vintage (May 2006)
- Elio Altare Revisited: 1970 – 1991 (May 2006)
- An Unforgettable Winter Dinner: Barolo 1958 – 1998 (May 2006)
- Piedmont Report Issue 7 (May 2006)
- A Memorable Evening of Barolo and Barbaresco: 1978 – 1990 (May 2006)
- The ‘Legends of Piedmont’ at Crush (May 2006)
- Barolo 2002: New Releases (May 2006)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2006)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2006)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)
- 2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)
- New Releases from Portugal (Mar 2006)
- The Best New Wines from Chile (Mar 2006)
- Focus on Northeast Italy (Mar 2006)
- Vintage Retrospective: The 1978 Barolos and Barbarescos (Jan 2006)
- Piedmont Report Issue 6 (Jan 2006)
- A Magical Evening of Great Barolos at Cru (Jan 2006)
- 2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)
- Germany '04: A Classic Spatlese Vintage (Jan 2006)
- 2003 Vintage Ports (Jan 2006)
- New Releases from California (Jan 2006)
- 2005
- Austria 2004:A Viticulturist's Year (Nov 2005)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2005)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)
- Focus on Argentina (Nov 2005)
- Vintage Retrospective: The 1985 Barolos and Barbarescos (Oct 2005)
- Bruno Giacosa Revisited: 1986-1988 (Oct 2005)
- Paolo Scavino: Barolo Cannubi 1989-2001 (Oct 2005)
- Luciano Sandrone: Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1985-2001 (Oct 2005)
- Four Decades of Barolo: Wines of the 60s, 70s, 80s, and 90s (Oct 2005)
- Piedmont Report Issue 5 (Oct 2005)
- The Best New Wines from New Zealand (Sep 2005)
- 2004 and 2003 White Burgundies (Sep 2005)
- Australia, Part Two (Sep 2005)
- The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2005)
- Giacomo Conterno Vertical Tasting (Jul 2005)
- An update from Barolo... (Jul 2005)
- Piedmont Report Issues 3 & 4 (Jul 2005)
- Giuseppe Mascarello Vertical Tasting (Jul 2005)
- 2004 and 2003 Chablis (Jul 2005)
- 2003 and 2002 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2005)
- New Releases from Southern Italy (Jul 2005)
- New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)
- Focus on California's Central Coast (Jul 2005)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2005)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2005)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)
- Cavallotto: The Barolo Riservas (Apr 2005)
- Piedmont Report Issue 2 (Apr 2005)
- Produttori del Barbaresco: The 1999 Riservas (Apr 2005)
- Focus on South Africa (Mar 2005)
- 2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)
- 2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)
- Best New Releases from California (Jan 2005)
- Germany 2003: Extreme Riesling (Jan 2005)
- 2004
- An Introduction to Piedmont Report (Dec 2004)
- The 1997 Gajas Revisited (Dec 2004)
- Marcarini: Barolo Brunate 1996-2001 (Dec 2004)
- Some Thoughts on Barolo 2000 and a Preview of 2001.... (Dec 2004)
- Piedmont Report Issue 1 (Dec 2004)
- Barbaresco 2001: An Overview of Current Releases (Dec 2004)
- Elio Altare: Barolo Brunate 1999-2001 (Dec 2004)
- Barolos of the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s (Dec 2004)
- Exploring Brunate: The 2000 Brunate Barolos (Dec 2004)
- Austria's Surprising 2003s (Nov 2004)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2004)
- Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)
- The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2004)
- 1999 Brunello di Montalcino (Sep 2004)
- 2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004)
- The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)
- Best of the Alto-Adige and Trentino (Jul 2004)
- 2003 and 2002 Chablis (Jul 2004)
- Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)
- New Releases from Argentina (Jul 2004)
- New Wines from the Central Coast (Jul 2004)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2004)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)
- Languedoc/Roussillon 2001 (Mar 2004)
- 2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2004)
- 2002 Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs (Mar 2004)
- New Releases from California (Jan 2004)
- Focus on the Maconnais (Jan 2004)
- 2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)
- Germany's Charming 2002 Vintage (Jan 2004)
- 2003
- Alsace 2002 and 2001 (Nov 2003)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)
- Austria's Amiable 2002s (Nov 2003)
- Best New Wines from Washington State (Nov 2003)
- New Releases from Southern Italy (Sep 2003)
- Focus on Brunello di Montalcino (Sep 2003)
- 1999 Tokaji Aszu Releases (Sep 2003)
- The Best New Wines from New Zealand (Sep 2003)
- New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)
- The Best New Wines From Spain (Jul 2003)
- New Releases from Australia (Jul 2003)
- 2001 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2003)
- 2002 and 2001 Chablis (Jul 2003)
- Focus on California (May 2003)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2003)
- Focus on South Africa (Mar 2003)
- 2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)
- 2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)
- Dolcetto and Barbera (Jan 2003)
- Austria 2001: Crazy, Often Remarkable (Jan 2003)
- 2000 Vintage Ports (Jan 2003)
- 2002
- New Releases from California (Nov 2002)
- Germany 2001: Golden October? (Nov 2002)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)
- New Releases from Washington State (Sep 2002)
- The Best New Wines from New Zealand (Sep 2002)
- 2001 and 2000 White Burgundies (Sep 2002)
- 1987 California Cabernets (Sep 2002)
- 2001 and 2000 Chablis (Jul 2002)
- New Releases from Australia (Jul 2002)
- New Languedoc/Roussillon Releases (Jul 2002)
- 1999 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2002)
- 1997 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2002)
- 1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)
- 1999 Vintage Port (Jul 2002)
- 2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)
- Best New Table Wines from Portugal (May 2002)
- Focus on California (May 2002)
- 2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)
- The Best New Wines from South Africa (Mar 2002)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2002)
- Germany 2000: Rot and Redemption (Jan 2002)
- 1999 and 1998 Chianti (Jan 2002)
- Spain Revisited (Jan 2002)
- 2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)
- 2001
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)
- Current Releases from California (Nov 2001)
- The Best New Wines from Spain (Nov 2001)
- Austria 2000: Extreme, Often Excellent (Nov 2001)
- The Forecast for Tokaj (Sep 2001)
- Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2001)
- New Releases from Washington State (Sep 2001)
- 2000 and 1999 White Burgundies (Sep 2001)
- Current Releases from New Zealand (Sep 2001)
- Daniel Thomases on Southern Italy (Jul 2001)
- Alsace 2000 and 1999 (Jul 2001)
- Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)
- 1999 and 1998 Sauternes (Jul 2001)
- Best New Wines from Argentina (May 2001)
- Focus on California (May 2001)
- 2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)
- New Releases from Chile (Mar 2001)
- Best New Table Wines from Portugal (Mar 2001)
- 1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)
- Mea Culpa (Mar 2001)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2001)
- The Best New Wines from South Africa (Jan 2001)
- 1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)
- Germany 1999: Generous to a Fault (Jan 2001)
- 2000
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2000)
- Current California Releases (Nov 2000)
- Champagne for Everyone (Nov 2000)
- Austria Outstanding, Abundant 1999s (Nov 2000)
- Current Releases from New Zealand (Sep 2000)
- Best New Releases from Spain (Sep 2000)
- 1999 and 1998 White Burgundies (Sep 2000)
- New Releases from Washington State (Sep 2000)
- Two Vertical Tastings (Sep 2000)
- Daniel Thomases on Tuscany (Jul 2000)
- The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2000)
- 1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)
- Focus on the Languedoc (Jul 2000)
- 1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)
- 1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)
- Focus on California (May 2000)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2000)
- 1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)
- The Best of South Africa (Mar 2000)
- New Releases from Chile and Argentina (Mar 2000)
- Best New Releases From Italy (Jan 2000)
- 1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)
- Germany Improbable 1998s (Jan 2000)
- 1999
- Austria's Astonishingly Successful 1998s (Nov 1999)
- The Best of Rioja and Ribera del Duero (Nov 1999)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)
- Current Releases from California (Nov 1999)
- 1998 and 1997 White Burgundies (Sep 1999)
- Best New Wines from Washington State (Sep 1999)
- The Best from Mediterranean France (Sep 1999)
- The Best Wines from Central Italy: Umbria, the Marches, Latium (Sep 1999)
- Today Tokaji (Sep 1999)
- Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)
- 1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)
- Alsace 1998 and 1997 (Jul 1999)
- Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 1999)
- 1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)
- Focus on California (May 1999)
- 1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)
- The Best New Wines from Portugal (Mar 1999)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 1999)
- 1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)
- Germany 1997: Easy-Access Ripeness (Jan 1999)
- Best New Releases From Italy (Jan 1999)
- 1998
- Current Releases from California (Nov 1998)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)
- A Tasting of the 1991 Northern Rhones (Nov 1998)
- Best New Wines from the Loire Valley (Nov 1998)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)
- Best New Wines from Washington State (Sep 1998)
- Austria Awe-Inspiring Autumn of 1997 (Sep 1998)
- Best New Wines from South Africa (Sep 1998)
- 1997 and 1996 White Burgundies (Sep 1998)
- Best New Releases from Spain (Sep 1998)
- Brunello di Montalcino and Other Red Wines of Tuscany... (Jul 1998)
- The Best From Mediterranean France (Jul 1998)
- Five California Verticals (Jul 1998)
- The Best New Releases From Australia (Jul 1998)
- Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)
- Focus on California (May 1998)
- 1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)
- 1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 1998)
- The Best New Wines from Portugal (Mar 1998)
- 1996
- 1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)
- 1993
- The 1990 Clarets...To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)