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Cava for All Seasons
The Cavas I tasted for this year's coverage in the International Wine Cellar were the strongest group I have yet encountered, which is great news for wine lovers looking for high-quality bubbly at a gentle price this holiday season. But I wouldn't restrict my Cava consumption to a single season. The wide range of Cava styles now available in the U.S. ensures that one could literally serve a different one with every dish in a multi-course meal. And with rare exception prices are comparable to what you'd pay for a middling white wine.The rising price of Champagne has pushed many wine enthusiasts away in recent years, to the benefit of all other sparkling wine producing regions, and Spain is well positioned to take advantage of the situation. The history of sparkling wine-making here goes back to the mid-19th century and production is on a massive scale, but most of the wine is of pedestrian quality, and that's what was mostly shipped to the U.S. until fairly recently. As a result, Cava's reputation is a bit sketchy in this market. The fact that pricing has always been mostly low here is to the benefit of savvy buyers who know the best Cava producers and bottlings.
Part of Cava's image problem, aside from the mediocrity of too many examples, can be blamed on the fact that most of it is made with indigenous grapes that are rarely grown elsewhere. The dominant varieties for Cava are xarel-lo, parellada and macabeo, which are hardly household names even among wine geeks. There's an earthy, musky quality to most wines made from these varieties, and many wine lovers raised on a diet of chardonnay and pinot grigio will be perplexed by the slightly rustic character that they impart. Some Cava producers have made an attempt to appeal to a broader audience by planting chardonnay and pinot noir and some even make the wines exclusively from those varieties, often with considerable success. But the best Cavas, or the ones with the most character, are those that are made from the native varieties grown in carefully chosen and tended sites, with an eye to quality rather than quantity.
The recent explosion of Spanish restaurants in the U.S. and their demand for the best Spanish wines have emboldened a number of importers to dip their toes in the pool of high-quality Cava, and from all reports the market's response has been positive. Indeed, I tasted a number of Cavas this year that bear comparison to very good Champagne, and with rare exception their prices are much, much lower than those commanded by their fancy French cousins. Most of the best Cavas are still being imported in small amounts, though, so some sleuthing will be in order for many of my favorite bottles. But your effort will be rewarded.
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Producers in this Article
- Albet i Noya
- Avinyó
- Basca
- Bodegas Andare
- Bodegas Finca Torremilanos
- Bodegas Hispano Suizas
- Bodegas Huguet de Can Feixes
- Bodegas Matilde
- Bodegas Muga
- Bodegas Pinord
- Casteller
- Castillo Perelada
- Cava Llopart
- Caves Naveran
- Caves Sonim
- Codorníu
- Conde de Subirats
- Font i Jordana
- Freixenet
- Gramona
- Gran Sarao
- Jaume Serra Cristalino
- Juvé & Camps
- Lacueva
- Loxarel
- Maria Casanovas
- Mercat
- Miquel Pons
- Monte Vicor
- Mont-Marçal
- Pares Balta
- Ramon Canals Canals
- Raventós i Blanc
- U mes U fan Tres
- Vins el Cep
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- Germany 1997: Easy-Access Ripeness (Jan 1999)
- 1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)
- Best New Releases From Italy (Jan 1999)
- 1998
- A Tasting of the 1991 Northern Rhones (Nov 1998)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)
- Current Releases from California (Nov 1998)
- Best New Wines from the Loire Valley (Nov 1998)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)
- Best New Wines from South Africa (Sep 1998)
- Best New Releases from Spain (Sep 1998)
- Austria Awe-Inspiring Autumn of 1997 (Sep 1998)
- Best New Wines from Washington State (Sep 1998)
- 1997 and 1996 White Burgundies (Sep 1998)
- Brunello di Montalcino and Other Red Wines of Tuscany... (Jul 1998)
- Five California Verticals (Jul 1998)
- The Best New Releases From Australia (Jul 1998)
- The Best From Mediterranean France (Jul 1998)
- Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)
- 1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)
- Focus on California (May 1998)
- The Best New Wines from Portugal (Mar 1998)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 1998)
- 1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)
- 1996
- 1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)
- 1993
- The 1990 Clarets...To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)