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Cellar Favorite: 2004 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Montrachet Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, May 2025
The 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is an elusive white Burgundy that amounts to one barrel. A friend generously offered this bottle of 2004 Montrachet at a casual dinner in Beaune during Hospices weekend last November.
Grape Expectations: Burgundy 1978 Retrospective
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, Apr 2025
It was a privilege to attend this 1978 horizontal—however, there is always a risk when broaching old bottles, especially Pinot Noir from an era besmirched by swings in quality. Fortunately, scattered among the disappointments is a clutch of bottles that sparkle like rubies in the sand.
Pinball Number Count: Bouchard Père 1923-2013
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, Apr 2025
The second edition of Bouchard Père & Fils’ time travels through their enviably deep library comprised a number of vintages ending in the number “three,” all served blind at the domaine’s headquarters in Beaune. This tasting revealed a clutch of remarkable bottles from forgotten vintages.
2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being
France: Burgundy, featured
, Mar 2025
I admit I approached the 2022s from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with some trepidation. Given reports of extreme, record-setting warm and dry weather, I feared a repeat of 2020, a year in which the wines were unusually dark and concentrated. Those concerns were quickly allayed as soon as I started tasting the 2022s. The wines are absolutely brilliant. Elegant and poised, the 2022s are not only captivating, but they also offer that most elusive of all qualities in fine wine: the ability to convey the essence of site.
Cellar Favorite: 1992 Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2025
My good friend Lord Bruce recently raided his cellar and produced a gem of a Burgundy from a vintage more renowned for the whites: the 1992 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru from Domaine Hubert Lignier.
Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Retrospective: 1993-2016
France: Burgundy, featured
, Feb 2025
It’s very rare for Frédéric Mugnier to participate in a tasting of his own wines, let alone his Musigny, so when I heard a few days before the event that a spot was available at a vertical of 15 vintages, with Mugnier in attendance, I leapt at the chance.
Future Memories: DRC 2022 In Bottle
France: Burgundy, featured
, Feb 2025
Much has been written about Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, but tasting the bottled 2022s recently, I thought about all the memories made whenever a bottle of DRC is opened…
2023 Burgundy Supplement
France: Burgundy, featured
, Feb 2025
This brief supplement to Neal Martin’s extensive report on the 2023 Burgundies covers several dozen wines I tasted on my most recent trip through the region. Readers will want to revisit Neal’s article for an in-depth look at the growing season and the conditions that shaped the wines.
Cellar Favorite: 2019 Domaine Dureuil-Janthial Rully En Guesnes Wadana
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2025
I suspect that nearly all wines from the Rully appellation are consumed in their youth. The 2019 Rully En Guesnes Wadana proves that not all Rullys are made equal.
Burgundy 2023: The State of Play
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jan 2025
Following my Burgundy 2023 report, I have penned my views on the state of the Burgundy market after conversing with growers in the Côte d’Or, head buyers at UK merchants and, most crucially, consumers at several tastings in London in January 2025.