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Vinous Table: La Table du Square, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2026
It is easy to see why La Table du Square is one of Beaune’s most popular places to dine. There is always a lively atmosphere, and the milk-fed lamb has become one of the area’s must-eat dishes.
Burgundy 2024: The State of Play
France: Burgundy, featured
, Mar 2026
There is much handwringing about the escalation of Burgundy prices. In this opinion piece, I disentangle the interrelated factors that have upheld that gravity-defying escalation, its consequences and how it all might play out.
Curse of the Fours: Bouchard Père 1861-2014
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, Mar 2026
The word for “four” might be unlucky in Japan, but it certainly was not unlucky with regard to a stunning tasting of wines from Bouchard Père’s cellar back to the 19th century. If that’s not enough, a second Bouchard Père dinner held without a numerical theme was just as enthralling. Together, they form an unrepeatable vinous journey through time.
Vinous Table: La Lune, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
The litmus test of a restaurant is not whether it blows you away on your first sitting, but whether it blows you away on your tenth, or your twentieth. Despite how many times I have eaten at La Lune, my favourite restaurant in Beaune, I always depart feeling elated.
No Alarm: 2023 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
France: Burgundy, featured
, Feb 2026
Despite a brief interruption from the fire alarm, it was business as usual as I entered the “classroom” to taste the 2023 releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with “teachers” Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal. Which cuvées stood out this year?
It’s Rousseau’Clock: Grand Crus 1967-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, Feb 2026
It’s Rousseau’clock! An epic tasting of Rousseau’s Grand Crus last November provided valuable insight into their Clos de la Roche, Ruchottes and Charmes-Chambertin. Whilst market prices have escalated in recent years, what has not changed is the calibre of their wines.
Burgundy 2024: One Battle After Another
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jan 2026
The 2024 vintage tested the mettle of every winemaker in Burgundy. In some ways, there are two entirely different growing seasons in the most complex and fascinating vintage I have ever reported on. Quantities can be absurdly minuscule, quality wildly variable, yet for every calamity, there is a triumph against the odds. It's a vintage that raises more questions than answers.
Cellar Favorite: 1997 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2026
There aren’t too many things I enjoy more than a mature bottle of Raveneau Chablis. Approaching its thirtieth birthday, the 1997 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is in magnificent form today.
Cellar Favorite: 1955 Domaine Georges Roumier Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Dec 2025
From one of Burgundy’s greatest winemakers in one of its finest vintages, the transcendental 1955 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru is the epitome of mature Pinot Noir.
Cellar Favorite: 1970 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Dec 2025
I have been fortunate to taste many vintages of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Montrachet Grand Cru over the years, but the 1970 was a vintage that had eluded me. This is a very special bottle, both for what is in the glass and for the rich history it unlocks.