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Behind the Red Curtain: Penfolds Special Bins from the Vault

Australia Featured, Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, Mar 2025

Winemaker trials are key to the pursuit of exceptional wine. Small batches can allow creativity to flourish. The genesis of truly fine wine at Penfolds began in the 1940s with a program of wines that became known as Special Bins. A rare tasting of Penfolds Special Bins stretching back to the 1950s offered a glimpse deep into the historic past and showcased modern Australian benchmarks.

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North East Victoria: Full of Surprises

Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, Feb 2025

There is no better illustration of Australian wine diversity than a tour through North East Victoria. Stretching from the elevated Alpine Valleys to the warmer environs along the Murray River, breathtaking Chardonnays coexist with iconic fortified wines, providing both a glimpse of the past and an exciting future.

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Digging for Gold in Western Victoria

Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, Nov 2024

Australia is often accused of being home to bold and brash wines, where bigger is better, but Western Victoria provides a counterpoint to that idea. Here, temperate and continental climates have given rise to wines of style and substance for over 160 years. This report takes a walk through Western Victoria’s myriad regions and showcases surprising diversity, from the ethereal Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs of Macedon Ranges and Geelong to the structured Shirazes and Cabernet Sauvignons of the Pyrenees, Heathcote and Grampians.

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A Snapshot of the Antipodes - La Place 2024

Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, Sep 2024

Fall releases from La Place Bordeaux showcase a selection of wines from around the world. Australian wines have been part of the offerings since 2020. This article features reviews of the new 2024 antipodean releases.

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Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk

Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, Aug 2024

The 2022 Barossa vintage will long be etched in the memories of local winemakers for both triumph and tragedy. For the vast majority, 2022 is a triumph, with plentiful winter rainfall and a long, mild growing season that shaped a vintage for the ages, the best in years. Only sporadic hail intervened, breaking the hearts of some grape growers and winemakers with what could have been.

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Ironing Out The Kinks: Jim Barry The Armagh 1985-2021

Verticals & Retrospectives, Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, Jun 2024

The tale of Jim Barry’s Armagh Shiraz has mirrored the national wine story over the last forty years. Terroirs with the highest aspirations from the outset have taken time to hit their straps, with occasional missteps along the way. Thanks to greater precision in the vineyard and winery, the last ten years have seen this Clare Valley Shiraz slip into a neat groove with a unique mix of sheer power and finesse. This was showcased in this complete vertical tasting stretching back to the inaugural 1985 vintage.

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The Yin and the Yang of Western Australia

Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, May 2024

Western Australia remains a beacon of hope and value in a world of stratospheric fine wine prices. This report shows that, pound for pound, few regions can match Margaret River for finely crafted Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. My first coverage of the emerging regions of Great Southern and Pemberton also showcases wines that are surprising for their subtlety and diversity.

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Victoria: Cutting Edge Meets Classic

Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, Mar 2024

In south-eastern Victoria, the regions of Yarra Valley and Gippsland are leaders in the emerging wave of modern Australian wines thanks to a mix of cool climates and cutting-edge winemaking. This report showcases how these diverse terroirs, coupled with recent mild vintages, have delivered refined Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and even Nebbiolo that challenge traditional perceptions of Australian wine styles and quality.

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Flirting with Perfection - Giaconda Chardonnay 2011-2021

Verticals & Retrospectives, Australia Featured, Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, Jan 2024

There are more famous Chardonnays in Australia, but none are more keenly collected or tightly held than Rick Kinzbrunner’s enigmatic Giaconda. Originally conceived in California, Giaconda not only put the small outpost of Beechworth in Victoria on the international map, it also helped an entire nation to find its Chardonnay mojo. A rare chance to taste the last decade of vintages exceeded expectations and showcased a world-class wine that can compete with the very best.

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Killer Cabernet from Coonawarra and Friends

Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, Oct 2023

There is a widespread perception that Shiraz is far and away South Australia’s leading red grape variety. Yet scratch a little deeper, and the credentials of Cabernet Sauvignon loom large, from bold Barossan and Clare Valley styles through to more elegant and nuanced wines. This article explores the current state of South Australian Cabernet Sauvignon and blends from a range of regions while uncovering the breathtaking quality and value to be found in Coonawarra’s 2021 vintage.