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A Bit of Fortification: Port and Madeira New Releases
Portugal, Fortified Wines & Spirits, Fortified Wines and Spirits, featured
Jul 2025
,Fortified wine has long been a passion of mine. This short article rounds up recent releases from Quinta do Noval, Symington and Taylor Fladgate Port Houses, as well as recent Madeira bottlings from Blandy’s.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Guy de Barjac Cornas
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France
Jul 2025
,Stick me on a desert island with a choice of one Rhône wine, and I would choose Cornas. I love this appellation, especially when a mature bottle crops up.
Cellar Favorite: 1952 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, featured
Jun 2025
,1952 was a significant vintage: it marked the return of the Romanée-Conti cuvée after the monopole’s ungrafted vines were pulled out following the 1945 harvest. It was a complete privilege to drink this extraordinarily rare piece of history.
Cellar Favorite: 2000 Noël Verset Cornas
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
Jun 2025
,A recent bottle of the 2000 Cornas was a pertinent reminder of how Noël Verset’s wines can bring such joy.
One Night in Taipei: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1995-2017
France: Burgundy, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
Jun 2025
,This was an invaluable overview of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Richebourg—an opportunity to really examine a single cuvée, to observe how it interacts with the heterogeneity of growing seasons that leads to differing results in the bottle. It was also a timely reminder that despite this domaine’s lofty reputation, no bottle is beyond criticism.
A Century of...Fives
France: Bordeaux, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, featured
Jun 2025
,My annual "Century of..." article revisits vintages on their decennial anniversaries. This year, we dive into Fives.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Hennebelle
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux, featured
Jun 2025
,The 1990 Hennebelle is a pertinent reminder of the glories of Bordeaux, how a modest quarter-century-old Haut-Médoc could deliver such pleasure.
Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States
Vinous Table, featured
Jun 2025
,Located just a few blocks from Capitol Hill, L’Ardente offers unpretentious, straight-down-the-line Italian fare that has earned a reputation for quality. The atmosphere is lively and the sommelier team is impressive.
Cellar Favorite: 2021 Château Simone Palette Blanc
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France
Jun 2025
,The 2021 Château Simone Blanc serves as a pertinent reminder of just how good wines from Provence can be.
Bordeaux: The Crisis Laid Bare
France: Bordeaux, featured
Jun 2025
,Bordeaux is facing its biggest crisis since the 1930s. After speaking candidly to people in and outside of Bordeaux, I felt a duty to depict the sheer scale of the calamity the Bordeaux wine industry is up against.