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Cellar Favorite: 1985 Lisini Prefillossero
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Italy
, Aug 2024
Vines planted in their own roots is a subject that has intrigued me for a while, not least after my now infamous article on Liber Pater. The topic arose again recently with Eric Guido’s excellent piece on Tiberio’s Fonte Canale. Addressing ungrafted vines, one must not conflate recent plantings on vines’ own roots and the plots of surviving vines that predate the phylloxera louse in the late 19th century. This story is about the latter.
Vinous Table: Lumière, Cheltenham, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Aug 2024
Lumière is a pertinent reminder that this country has fostered a raft of brilliant chefs in recent years, many out in provincial towns. I wish we had our own Lumière where I live in Guildford! This is haut cuisine at a high level without the pretension one occasionally finds.
Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2012 Mouton-Rothschild
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Aug 2024
Last year, I attended the unveiling of the new artist label at Mouton-Rothschild. This was the first time it was held at the First Growth in Pauillac. Once the artist, Chiharu Shiota, had received her round of applause for her 2021 ‘balloon’ label, guests gathered for dinner featuring two vintages.
Chablis 2022-2023: Here Comes the Sun King
France: Burgundy, featured
, Aug 2024
Chablis was bearing the brunt of a challenging growing season when I visited in 2024, but at least the previous two vintages refilled cellars. What are the differences between 2022 and 2023, and what should you look to buy?
Cellar Favorite: 2001 Rustenberg Peter Barlow
South Africa, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Aug 2024
The 2001 Peter Barlow from Rustenberg was poured blind at a comparative tasting of South African Cabernets against Bordeaux during this year’s visit. The Peter Barlow acquitted itself admirably, even here, pitted against an impressive 2001 Léoville Las-Cases. The Peter Barlow is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate’s oldest vines, named after the man who bought the property back in 1941. This vintage was made by his son, Simon Barlow, while his grandson, Murray, has been the winemaker since 2012.
Cellar Favorite: 1928-1998 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Aug 2024
When visiting this Pauillac Second Growth earlier this year, Nicolas Glumineau poured several vintages blind. The theme turned out to be years ending in eight, though when he invited me to choose another, I headed for one of the more disparaged of the 20th century, not without sound reason…
Vinous Table: Cloth, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Aug 2024
Cloth is doing nearly everything right. Clearly, it has hit the ground running. Despite its central location, it has a cozy ambiance, and Butterworth, gadding about the restaurant, is a lively and pleasing presence. Its wine list will be a strong draw for oenophiles, while the food is not a secondary consideration. There’s no pretension, and everything is refreshingly straightforward in the best way.
Cellar Favorite: 1949 and 1959 Pape Clément
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Aug 2024
Like many Bordeaux estates, Pape Clément suffered during the 1930s and the war. Under owner Paul Montagne, it was not until the 1950s that renovation was completed and the wines could reach their potential. Might that explain why the 1959 Pape Clément outshone the 1949 when served at a Bordeaux-themed dinner in Hong Kong last September? Both bottles came from the same cellar.
Vinous Table: Ikoyi, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Aug 2024
So, Ikoyi… The level of gastronomy, execution, presentation, ingenuity of ingredients and, at times, innovative combinations deserve accolades and Michelin stars, definitely two and close to three. Whereas some of what you might call ‘retrograde’ restaurants are reverting back to simplicity, and trust me, that is something that should be welcomed, Ikoyi is a reminder that achieving great heights, a chef with a clear vision, is something that should be cherished, even if, unlike art, it can only be experienced by few.
Mâconnais 2022/2023: Don’t Pass Me By
France: Burgundy, featured
, Aug 2024
The Mâconnais has a wellspring of delicious and affordable Chardonnay that it could be argued is only now demonstrating what its finest terroirs can achieve…in the right hands. More than just Pouilly-Fuissé, more than its recently introduced Premier Crus, there is much to be discovered, especially in a benevolent vintage as 2022.