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Vinous Table: The Sportsman, Kent, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Sep 2022
I first heard about The Sportsman not long after it opened from a local friend, and it had only taken a couple of decades to visit. Thankfully, it did not disappoint. This is cooking where the chef wisely takes a back seat and allows the ingredients do all the talking.
Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022
South Africa, featured
, Sep 2022
Returning after lockdown, I sought to take the temperature of South Africa’s ever-changing vinous landscape: walking vineyards, meeting winemakers and marvelling at wines that quicken the pulse. What are the roots of its success? Where are the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead? It’s time to find out.
A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2022
Why look back 10 years when you could look back 20, 30, 40, perhaps 110 years? After a lockdown hiatus, my annual “Century of…” article examines an array of Bordeaux wines from a raft of 2012s, all the way back to the year the Titanic sank.
Cellar Favorite: Blandy’s Madeira – 2022 Bottlings
Portugal, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2022
I recently joined Blandy’s CEO, Chris Blandy, and head winemaker, Francisco Albuquerque, for a tasting of their 2022 Madeira bottlings.
Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2022
Didier Cuvelier rejuvenated Léoville-Poyferré. A new chapter opened when his cousin, Sara Lecompte Cuvelier, took over the helm a few years ago. Following a vertical of recent vintages, this article examines one of Saint-Julien’s most respected estates.
Vinous Table: L’Espace PH3 Bistrot/La Pyramide, Vienne, France
France, Vinous Table
, NM
The hotel boasts two restaurants, the two Michelin-starred La Pyramide and a bistro, L’Espace PH3. On the first night, attendees convened at the bistro in order to mine its eye-boggling wine lists, and the following day, the second part of the Chambertin tasting was accompanied by a specially prepared menu in the flagship restaurant.
Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021
France: Burgundy, featured
, Sep 2022
Chablis is a mirror, translating growing seasons into wine with minimal interference compared to elsewhere. The 2020 and 2021 vintages are very different, the latter resulting in wines I thought would not be seen again. So where do you start looking?
Cellar Favorite: 1997 & 2009 Kanonkop Paul Sauer
South Africa, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2022
The secondary market for South Africa’s most desirable top cuvées continues to see increasing numbers of collectors chasing diminishing supply. Buoyant interest in the Cape’s blue chips is a relatively recent phenomenon that has grown organically, pulled by demand rather than forced by supply. One coveted label is Kanonkop’s Paul Sauer.
Vinous Table: Cornerstone, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Sep 2022
Cornerstone is the kind of restaurant that I am seeking more and more these days: either waiting patiently for a Michelin star or recently in receipt of one, yet unburdened by the accolade. As a showcase for Tom Brown’s culinary skill, Cornerstone works perfectly.
Cellar Favorite: 2010 & 2011 Porseleinberg
South Africa, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2022
Porseleinberg leads an impressive and growing fleet of world-class Syrah/Rhône blends from South Africa.