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Cellar Favorite: 2004 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Montrachet Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, May 2025
The 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is an elusive white Burgundy that amounts to one barrel. A friend generously offered this bottle of 2004 Montrachet at a casual dinner in Beaune during Hospices weekend last November.
Vinous Table: Casa Julián, Tolosa, Spain
Vinous Table, Spain
, May 2025
The Basque region is a foodie’s paradise, a cradle for some of the finest fish, meat and dairy in the world. Casa Julián is a bona fide institution, and will certainly be one of my top meals of 2025.
Going Underground: Clos Fourtet 1989-2019
France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, featured, France: Bordeaux
, May 2025
Clos Fourtet is one of the most picturesque and ideally located châteaux in Saint-Émilion, blessed with some of the finest terroir on the limestone plateau. Under Mathieu Cuvelier, Clos Fourtet has realised its potential and is now regarded amongst the appellation’s best wines. The heart of this piece is an interview with Cuvelier following a vertical tasting of recent vintages, detailing specifics of the vineyard and winemaking approaches.
Cellar Favorite: 2022 António Madeira Branco Vinhas Velhas
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Portugal
, May 2025
On a recent return to Solar dos Presuntos, Lisbon’s go-to restaurant for any wine-lover, I ordered Madeira’s 2022 Branco Vinhas Velhas. Our sommelier grinned, knowing the treat in store. I was blown away.
Cellar Favorite: 2012 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France
, May 2025
Bandol is a gem of a wine region with a treasure trove of great wines and producers, and the most renowned of all is Domaine Tempier. During a recent dinner in London, I spotted a bottle of 2012 Bandol Cuvée Classique on the wine list. It was a no-brainer.
Vinous Table: Belcanto, Lisbon, Portugal
Vinous Table, Portugal
, May 2025
If you want to taste high-level cuisine without pretentiousness, then Belcanto comes highly recommended. Generally regarded as Lisbon’s finest restaurant, Belcanto invites the diner on a gustatory journey with Portuguese celebrity chef José Avillez.
Event Horizon: Bordeaux 2024 Primeur
featured, France: Bordeaux
, May 2025
Twenty-four was a tough fight for Bordeaux winemakers, but one that some were prepared for. While there are unavoidable shortcomings in the wines, some châteaux succeeded where they would have once failed. This report will not tell you whether to buy the wines or not, since prices are only just being released. But it will tell you exactly what I think about the quality of the unfinished barrel samples.
Cellar Favorite: 2015 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre
cellar favorite, France: Rhône & Beaujolais, Cellar Favorites
, Apr 2025
During my recent trip to Beaujolais, I was treated to a smattering of mature bottles that proved once again how exquisitely Gamay can age. None more so than this delectable ten-year-old Morgon popped open during my visit to one of Beaujolais’ most renowned producers, Marcel Lapierre.
Vinous Table: Henry’s End, Brooklyn, New York
Vinous Table, featured
, Apr 2025
The phrase "neighbourhood institution" connotes a restaurant where passionate, talented chefs with attention to detail have sustained it through the years, a restaurant that stands as a beacon of quality. Henry's End might have opened over half a century ago, but standards remain high and people still love it.
Grape Expectations: Burgundy 1978 Retrospective
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, Apr 2025
It was a privilege to attend this 1978 horizontal—however, there is always a risk when broaching old bottles, especially Pinot Noir from an era besmirched by swings in quality. Fortunately, scattered among the disappointments is a clutch of bottles that sparkle like rubies in the sand.