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Vinous Table: S.Y. Kitchen, Santa Ynez, CA
Vinous Table, United States: California
, Jul 2024
This recent dinner at S.Y. Kitchen was one of the best meals I have had in a very long time. I am not sure why, but several years had passed since my last visit. That is not a mistake I will make again. Everything we tried was divine.
Paso Robles 2021-2023: Far From Typical
featured, United States: California
, Jul 2024
Paso Robles fans have reasons to be optimistic. Following the challenging, smoke-affected 2020 vintage, the 2021s are truly fantastic. Although the 2022s are not as captivating, the 2023s may outpace them all.
Vinous Table: Mustards Grill, Napa, CA
Vinous Table, United States: California
, Jun 2024
A Napa Valley institution, Mustards Grill remains a consistently fine spot to enjoy contemporary American comfort food at its finest. Chef/Owner Cindy Pawlcyn and her team, led by Managing Partner Sean Knight and Executive Chef Michael Foster, serve up a menu of what they call “Deluxe Truck Stop Classics.” I can’t say I have ever seen a truck stop with food like this, though. At a time when so many things change so fast, Mustards is one of my favorite places to eat when I am in Napa Valley.
Cellar Favorite: 1991 Araujo Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, United States: California
, Jun 2024
Now, here's a rare old bird. The 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard was the maiden vintage after Bart and Daphne Araujo purchased the revered vineyard from Joseph Phelps. In fact, according to Frédéric Engerer, who served this wine blind in London, this was the very last bottle in the original cellar, the estate having been sold to Artémis Group in July 2013. It brought back fond memories of a complete vertical a decade ago in London, and I dug out the accompanying article that I penned for Wine-Journal.
Aerika Estate: The Prologue
featured, United States: California
, Jun 2024
Over the years, I have been fortunate to see many projects get off the ground in Napa Valley. Founded by Rob Black and Julia van der Vink, Aerika Estate is one of the most exciting and promising new ventures I have seen in Napa Valley in some time.
Vinous Table: Ad Hoc, Yountville, CA
Vinous Table, United States: California
, Jun 2024
Ad Hoc offers delicious interpretations of American comfort food classics but with added touches that elevate the cuisine far beyond household fare. Everything about this dinner was terrific. Food, wine and service were all tops.
Cellar Favorite: 1988 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, United States: California
, Jun 2024
A vertical of Robert Mondavi Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve back to the maiden vintage remains one of the best tastings I have ever participated in. It was one of the few occasions where guests refused to leave because the bottles were so good.
Rosé New Releases: All Over the Map
Austria, France, featured, United States: California, Italy, Spain
, May 2024
Rosé remains in full swing. Ever the popular quaff as the weather warms and the dog days of summer approach, there’s more pink wine on store shelves than ever. However, new releases, mostly from the 2023 vintage, are a bit more variable than usual.
2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, United States: California
, May 2024
The 2012 and 2013 vintages are among the best in recent memory. Both were met with considerable acclaim. Now that the wines have passed their tenth birthdays, it’s time to look back and see how things have shaped up, to examine which wines met or exceeded expectations and which did not.
Vinous Table: Glen Ellen Star, Glen Ellen, CA
Vinous Table, United States: California
, Mar 2024
I was very much looking forward to this dinner at Glen Ellen Star after a long day of tastings. The restaurant is in the small village of Glen Ellen, just a few minutes north of Sonoma, in the heart of Sonoma Valley. I spent a lot of time here when we worked on our Sonoma Valley map project a few years ago. Sonoma Mountain is just behind the restaurant, while Moon Mountain is east. Being in this unique part of Sonoma County always brings back a lot of memories.