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Cellar Favorite: 2009 Maximin Grünhaus – von Schubert Abtsberg Riesling Auslese #93
Germany, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2023
Poured on a hot sunny evening in Beaune between a quick dip in the pool and a delicious supper, the 2009 Abstberg Riesling Auslese #93 from winemaker Carl von Schubert ranks as one of the greatest Rieslings I've encountered in the last five years.
2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges
featured, germany: Mosel, Germany: Saar, Germany: Ruwer
, Oct 2023
Despite a hot and dry summer that brought record water deficits, the “challenging” Mosel vintage of 2022 delivered elegant wines. The best estates were able to make very good and even outstanding wines marked by moderate alcohol levels and freshness. This came down to three things: the resilience of deep-rooting old Riesling vines, the ingenuity of Riesling’s ability to self-regulate its metabolism and sorting at harvest.
2022 Rheinhessen & Nahe: Rain in the Nick of Time
featured, Germany
, Sep 2023
Relief and surprise were the primary emotions for winemakers across Rheinhessen and Nahe for the 2022 vintage, the driest and sunniest year since records began in 1881. Many expected opulence in their wines. Then rain arrived just in time. The relative slenderness of the wines and their moderate alcohol levels, however, are down to Riesling’s ingenious ability to self-regulate.
Markus Molitor Debuts Inaugural Rieslings from Domäne Serrig
featured, Germany
, Sep 2023
After having purchased the former royal Prussian state domain in the Saar Valley in 2016, German winemaker and Riesling supremo Markus Molitor now debuts the first two wines from the historic Serriger Vogelsang vineyard and the Domäne Serrig label: one dry Riesling, one Kabinett.
Germany Pre-Auctions Report: Trier and Bad Kreuznach
featured, Germany
, Sep 2023
The VDP’s two regional auctions in Trier and Bad Kreuznach in September are key dates for Riesling collectors. I was invited to attend pre-auction tastings held by the producers over the summer ahead of the auctions themselves. This article explains how these auctions work, but far more detail on the vintage and wineries will be in the respective regional reports covering Rheinhessen & Nahe and Mosel, Saar & Ruwer.
2021 Mosel and Saar – Tantalizing, Tingling, Thrilling
featured, germany: Mosel, Germany: Saar
, Jun 2023
The best dry 2021s from Mosel and Saar offer incredible clarity, poise and longevity. The top off-dry and sweet wines are analytics-defying tightrope acts, teetering between electric sharpness and fruity allure drawn mostly across the entire citrus spectrum. A long, cool growing season meant full aromatic development alongside pine-tingling acidity. It is a vintage for true Riesling hounds and those who delight in the deliciously bracing drama on the palate that only Riesling can offer.
Keller Excellence
featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, Germany
, Mar 2023
For nearly 20 years, Klaus Peter Keller has almost surely been Germany’s most written-about wine grower, both at home and abroad. What makes his estate perhaps the most exciting in Germany today? This article takes a close look at the people, places and mystique surrounding Weingut Keller, including detailed notes on wines from vintages 2019-2021.
Cellar Favorite: 2001 Weingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Auslese *** Goldkapsel
Germany, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2023
Klaus-Peter Keller’s wines have become collector catnip in recent years, with prices to match. It seems a long time since I made my only visit to the estate. In 2022, I was fortunate to taste several recent vintages and almost forgot this mature gem.
Mittelrhein 2019-2020: A Misunderstood Region
featured, Germany
, Jul 2022
With only a small number of well-known estates, it is easy to overlook the viticultural significance of one of Germany’s most popular tourist destinations. That would be an unfortunate mistake. Mittelrhein's producers are turning out high quality wines that showcase a wide variety of styles.
Saar Riesling 2019-2020: Selective Excellence
featured, Germany: Saar
, May 2022
While you aren’t likely to mistake a 2019 German Riesling for its 2020 counterpart – least of all in the Greater Mosel – the two growing seasons had surprisingly much in common. And from that, there’s a lot to learn.