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Chenin Blanc: Wait a Sec
France: Loire, featured
, Sep 2022
No two seasons are alike in the Loire these days. In addition, the reality is that dry wines are far easier to sell today than off-dry and sweet wines. Looking at 2020 and 2021 in the context of current trends, the question remains: while the market clamours for dry Loire Chenin Blanc, is the move towards drier styles in the wines’ best interests?
Sancerre: Finding Its Place
France: Loire, featured
, Aug 2022
Forget the grape behind Sancerre, local producers are increasingly keen to push their individual vineyards. With records showing the Sancerrois were using the term “climat” before the Burgundians and with hundreds of individual sites today, it’s important to acknowledge their history, but I wonder if the world demands such detail from Sancerre, or if its winemakers are trying to push wine uphill.
Loire Cabernet Franc: Who Do You Think You Are?
France: Loire, featured
, Aug 2022
Over the past two decades the quality of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc has soared. The very best wines are inimitable, elegant, terroir-driven and sensitively handled. They deserve to be discovered, in their own right, as superlative Loire reds, not a fresher alternative to Bordeaux Right Bank nor an affordable offering for Burgundy drinkers. Following four visits to the Loire in the first half of 2021, I was left wondering why Loire Cabernet wasn’t enough, why did it have to be benchmarked against other French wine regions that don’t make single varietal Cabernet Franc?
Cellar Favorite: 2011 Clos Rougeard Saumur Blanc Brézé
France: Loire, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, May 2022
It was actually during a visit to Ducru-Beaucaillou that I chanced upon this week’s Cellar Favourite. Entertaining a fellow wine scribe for lunch, proprietor Bruno Borie invited me to choose their pre-prandial white before I had to shoot off to another appointment.
Muscadet: A Region in Crus Control
France: Loire, featured
, Nov 2021
Life has not been kind to Muscadet producers in recent decades, but with the advent of a cru system, focusing on local terroir and extensive lees ageing, there are reasons for optimism. In my report, I ask if this is the rocket fuel this under-appreciated region needs to revive its fortunes or is it a case of Mission Impossible?
Cellar Favorite: 1964, 1971 and 1974 Domaine Couly-Dutheil Chinon
France: Loire, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2021
During my June stay in Burgundy, I visited a friend in Beaune for supper. Rather than pouring Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, he served exceptional mature Loire wines from his personal cellar that all made a big impression.
Cabernet Franc: The Dark Days Are Over
France: Loire, featured
, Oct 2021
Loire Cabernet Franc is not what it used to be. The days of green flavors and rustic tannins have been consigned to history. Not only do the most recent vintages display a riper expression, they reveal a greater understanding of what it takes to make refined Cabernet Franc.
Cellar Favorite: 1983 Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie
France: Loire, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2021
Though I have always adored the Loire, I never had the opportunity to devote time à la Burgundy or Bordeaux. However, in recent weeks, several exceptional mature Loire wines crossed my path. I would be remiss not writing about them.
Sancerre: Taking the Temperature
France: Loire, featured
, Aug 2021
I head to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé to discover growers battling challenging conditions year after year. The latest releases from the hot 2018, 2019 and 2020 vintages offer a ripe expression of Sauvignon in the central Loire, which may be a sign of things to come.
Cellar Favorite: 2009 François Cotat Sancerre Les Culs de Beaujeu
France: Loire, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Aug 2021
You know you’re in luck when you get a date with François Cotat. Despite his wines’ cult-like status, Cotat isn’t one for the limelight. Red carpets are not laid out for visitors. Donning his well-worn tracksuit, Cotat makes my jeans and Converse combination look positively dressy.