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Vinous Table: Gramercy Tavern, New York, USA
Vinous Table
, Dec 2025
More than 30 years after opening, Gramercy Tavern remains a benchmark for fine dining in New York City. That’s saying a lot in a town where restaurants come and go practically every day. I first dined at Gramercy Tavern in 2005, shortly after I moved to New York City. It quickly became a favorite. While most articles in our Vinous Table column are about a special meal, this article is a departure, mostly because I have been to Gramercy so many times over the years that I find it challenging to reduce my experiences to a meal or two.
Cellar Favorite: Champagne Louis Roederer – Inflection Points
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Champagne
, Dec 2025
Longtime Roederer Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon pulled out a stunning series of wines at the conclusion of my annual tasting of vins clairs and new releases earlier this year. Of course, it’s always interesting to taste older vintages, but these bottles represent something more than just rare wines from the past. Most of them represent inflection points in Lécaillon’s thinking.
Cellar Favorite: 1945 Riccardo Viganò Barolo Gran Riserva Cannubi
Italy: Piedmont, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2025
The 1945 Barolo Gran Riserva Cannubi from Riccardo Viganò is an emotional, deeply moving wine. I doubt I will ever see or taste it again, and there must be few bottles left anywhere.
El Molino: The Essence of Napa Valley Classicism
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Nov 2025
Despite boasting a history that stretches back to the late 1800s, El Molino remains one of Napa Valley’s most under-the-radar estates. I have only tasted these wines sporadically over the years myself, as the wines are rarely seen. Here, at her family’s historic St. Helena winery, proprietor Lily Oliver Berlin quietly crafts Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs of rare distinction. This vertical of the estate’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir back to 1999 revealed a sleeping giant, an iconic Napa Valley winery waiting to be discovered. Readers who admire old-school, classically built wines will find so much to admire.
Napa Valley Soars: The 2023 & 2024 Cabernet Sauvignons
napa, United States: California, featured
, Nov 2025
After three very challenging years, Napa Valley soars with the 2023 and 2024 Cabernet Sauvignons. The two vintages are quite different in style, and yet quality is very high in both years. In 2023, a long, cool growing season yielded young wines of exceptional finesse. Not to be outdone, the warmer 2024 vintage has a lot to offer as well. At some properties, the 2024s will challenge or surpass the 2023s.
2015 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: In the Zone
Verticals & Retrospectives, napa, featured
, Nov 2025
My annual look at the Napa Valley vintage ten years on was so illuminating. Two thousand fifteen is a vintage I have followed since the very beginning. Several trips during the fall of that year allowed me to see everything from fruit on the vine through to harvest, and then very young wines in tank. Overall, the wines have aged beautifully. Most are heading effortlessly into their second decade. Two thousand fifteen is a terrific vintage to drink now, although the best wines will continue to drink well for some time.
2022 & 2023 Barbaresco: Pushed to the Limit
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Oct 2025
Barbaresco faced two very challenging growing seasons in 2023 and 2022. Quality is inconsistent across the board. These are vintages in which readers will have to be especially selective, but there are some undeniable stars in both years.
2021 Barolo Part Two: Restless Energy
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Sep 2025
I was once again deeply impressed with the 2021 Barolos. My summer tastings focused on late releases and other wines I missed earlier in the year, along with a few 2021s I had a chance to revisit. Those tastings confirmed that 2021 is an exceptional year in terms of both quality and consistency. As I have written before, savvy Piedmont fans should note that it will be some time before another vintage of this caliber enters the market.
Vinous Table: Four Twenty Five, New York, USA
Vinous Table
, Sep 2025
Located in the heart of midtown Manhattan, chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Four Twenty Five is a welcome addition to New York City’s vibrant dining scene. For his latest venture, Vongerichten partnered with chef Jonathan Benno, a culinary star in his own right.
Cellar Favorite: 2000 Calon-Ségur
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Sep 2025
The 2000 Calon-Ségur epitomizes everything I love about Bordeaux, specifically how magnificently the wines develop over time.