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El Molino: The Essence of Napa Valley Classicism
featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Nov 2025
Despite boasting a history that stretches back to the late 1800s, El Molino remains one of Napa Valley’s most under-the-radar estates. I have only tasted these wines sporadically over the years myself, as the wines are rarely seen. Here, at her family’s historic St. Helena winery, proprietor Lily Oliver Berlin quietly crafts Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs of rare distinction. This vertical of the estate’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir back to 1999 revealed a sleeping giant, an iconic Napa Valley winery waiting to be discovered. Readers who admire old-school, classically built wines will find so much to admire.
Napa Valley Soars: The 2023 & 2024 Cabernet Sauvignons
napa, United States: California, featured
, Nov 2025
After three very challenging years, Napa Valley soars with the 2023 and 2024 Cabernet Sauvignons. The two vintages are quite different in style, and yet quality is very high in both years. In 2023, a long, cool growing season yielded young wines of exceptional finesse. Not to be outdone, the warmer 2024 vintage has a lot to offer as well. At some properties, the 2024s will challenge or surpass the 2023s.
2015 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: In the Zone
napa, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Nov 2025
My annual look at the Napa Valley vintage ten years on was so illuminating. Two thousand fifteen is a vintage I have followed since the very beginning. Several trips during the fall of that year allowed me to see everything from fruit on the vine through to harvest, and then very young wines in tank. Overall, the wines have aged beautifully. Most are heading effortlessly into their second decade. Two thousand fifteen is a terrific vintage to drink now, although the best wines will continue to drink well for some time.
2022 & 2023 Barbaresco: Pushed to the Limit
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Oct 2025
Barbaresco faced two very challenging growing seasons in 2023 and 2022. Quality is inconsistent across the board. These are vintages in which readers will have to be especially selective, but there are some undeniable stars in both years.
2021 Barolo Part Two: Restless Energy
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Sep 2025
I was once again deeply impressed with the 2021 Barolos. My summer tastings focused on late releases and other wines I missed earlier in the year, along with a few 2021s I had a chance to revisit. Those tastings confirmed that 2021 is an exceptional year in terms of both quality and consistency. As I have written before, savvy Piedmont fans should note that it will be some time before another vintage of this caliber enters the market.
Vinous Table: Four Twenty Five, New York, USA
Vinous Table
, Sep 2025
Located in the heart of midtown Manhattan, chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Four Twenty Five is a welcome addition to New York City’s vibrant dining scene. For his latest venture, Vongerichten partnered with chef Jonathan Benno, a culinary star in his own right.
Cellar Favorite: 2000 Calon-Ségur
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2025
The 2000 Calon-Ségur epitomizes everything I love about Bordeaux, specifically how magnificently the wines develop over time.
Vinous Table: Rowayton Seafood, Norwalk, Connecticut
Vinous Table
, Aug 2025
Rowayton is one of the quaint, idyllic, seaside towns on the Connecticut coast that comes alive in the summer. Proprietor Kevin Conroy purchased his seafood market, once the oldest running Lobster Cooperative on the Long Island Sound, in 1978. He later acquired the adjoining restaurant in 1996 on the way to building a collection of shops and restaurants that offer a slice of coastal living.
Vinous Table: Le Tout-Paris, Paris, France
France, Vinous Table
, Aug 2025
Le Tout-Paris is one of the four restaurants inside the Cheval Blanc hotel. With its colorful decor and stunning views of the Seine, Eiffel Tower and other landmarks, Le Tout-Paris is an ideal spot for enjoying the best Paris has to offer in a refined setting. This recent dinner with my daughter was one of the highlights of the week we spent exploring the city’s many cultural and culinary delights. Le Tout-Paris is open from early in the morning until late at night, seven days a week, making it a very useful address for Vinous readers spending time in the City of Lights.
Remembering Frédéric Panaïotis
Vinous Remembers, France: Champagne, featured
, Aug 2025
I was deeply saddened to learn of the passing of Frédéric Panaïotis in a diving accident earlier this summer. He was just 60 years old. Judging by the outpouring of support from the many people whose lives he touched, I was not alone. Panaïotis was one of the great ambassadors of Champagne, a rare Chef de Cave who was deeply versed in the technical aspects of winemaking and equally skilled in conveying tremendous passion and enthusiasm.