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Burgundy Focus 4: Ponsot’s Clos de la Roche & Morey Monts Luisants 1934-2019
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, May 2023
To celebrate 150 years of ownership, last May the Ponsot family hosted an extraordinary double vertical of their Clos de la Roche and white Monts Luisants back to the 1930s. This in-depth report examines the roles various family members have played in creating Burgundy as we know it today and reveals some ethereal wines.
Burgundy Focus 3: Mugnier’s Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru 2007-1980
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, May 2023
This unique vertical of Frédéric Mugnier’s Musigny Grand Cru offered a chance to examine one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines back to vintages that predate his arrival. In this instance, going back through time was not unlike witnessing someone unlearning their skill and experience.
Burgundy Focus 2: Domaine Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru 1945-2001
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2023
A vertical of any Burgundy going back to 1945 is a special event. This highly anticipated retrospective of Domaine Comte Armand’s Pommard Clos des Epeneaux was a timely reminder that older is not necessarily better. In vino veritas, as they say.
Henschke’s Hill of Grace - The Garden of Eden
Australia, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2023
Henschke’s iconic single vineyard Hill of Grace Shiraz, based on plantings that trace back over 160 years, is a wine built on intergenerational blood, sweat and tears. A rare vertical celebrating 60 years since the first vintage, including the inaugural 1958, showcased a wine building in confidence and stature to become one of Australia’s finest.
Burgundy Focus 1: Duroché’s Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 1988-2020
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2023
This is the first of four Burgundy-themed articles focusing on a single wine. Burgundy verticals are uncommon and almost impossible to repeat. Therefore, it would be remiss of me not to publish them as bite-size standalone pieces for future reference.
The 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: Stepping Back in Time
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, United States: California
, Apr 2023
Two thousand-one is one of the most important vintages in Napa Valley of the last 25 years or so. Highly regarded at the time, 2001 continues to impress with dark, potent wines, many of which are in the sweet spot for current drinking.
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio 1962-2017
Italy: Tuscany, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2023
Castello di Monsanto’s Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio forever changed the history of Chianti Classico as a region and wine. Consistency, a fervent belief in Sangiovese blended with a touch of indigenous red varieties, and a remarkable track record going back several decades have elevated Il Poggio to what is today – one of Italy’s most iconic wines. This unforgettable vertical back to the inaugural 1962 vintage provided myriad insights into the history of the estate and the evolution of the wine over the last five decades.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2023
This year’s presentation of the new releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti marked the beginning of a new chapter. It was the first time new Co-Managers Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine presented the wines following the retirement of Aubert de Villaine.
Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2023
Apart from interesting backstories, Beychevelle has passed between some of the most powerful families in France over nearly a millennium. This article stems from a vertical tasting of 25 vintages marking the quarter-century of Philippe Blanc’s tenure, plus a handful of notes for wines back to 1929.
Not Classed, but Classy: Haut-Bergeron 1961-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2023
Sauternes articles tend to focus on major châteaux. But in this piece, I shine the spotlight on a less familiar name, one whose wines punch above their weight: Haut-Bergeron.