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Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2022
Didier Cuvelier rejuvenated Léoville-Poyferré. A new chapter opened when his cousin, Sara Lecompte Cuvelier, took over the helm a few years ago. Following a vertical of recent vintages, this article examines one of Saint-Julien’s most respected estates.
The Power and the Passion: Wynns John Riddoch 1982-2019
Australia, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Sep 2022
The roots for Wynns Coonawarra Estate’s Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch were planted over a century ago in the 1890s. Today the wine is a modern Australian classic as illustrated by this full vertical tasting stretching back to the 1982 vintage. Fine, detailed and well structured, these long-lived Cabernet Sauvignons show more than just a passing resemblance to the best wines from the Left Bank and have their own, distinctive Coonawarra style.
Memories Tumble Out: Pichon Baron 1937-1990
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Aug 2022
Even the most famous Bordeaux estates own pitifully small libraries of older vintages. When Christian Seely invited me to taste a bygone era of Pichon Baron from the châteaux’s scant reserves, I knew it would be an unrepeatable travel back in time, one with plenty of surprises.
Relive the Nightmare! 2008 Red & White Burgundy
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Aug 2022
What lies inside a bottle of Burgundy? You never know until you open it. So, when touring the region, I tasted an eclectic array from the divisive 2008 vintage to see how the wines turned out, finding a few surprises on the way.
Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Aug 2022
At the end of April 2022, I conducted what turned out to be the final tasting of Climens with Bérénice Lurton as owner. This article examines the château’s history and viticulture with contributions from Lurton herself, as well as dozens of tasting notes stretching back decades.
Viñedo Chadwick: 21 Years of Cabernet Sauvignon from Puente Alto
Chile, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Aug 2022
In South America, some wines tell a story while others represent an entire era. There is no doubt that in Chile, Viñedo Chadwick is one of the latter. On my last trip to the country, I had the opportunity to explore 21 chapters of that tale, from beginning to end. Here is a journey through both the style of this Cabernet Sauvignon and the history of a terroir that has earned its name in Maipo.
Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Aug 2022
When I asked Pichon-Lalande winemaker Nicolas Glumineau to pour off-vintages of his choosing, it turned out to be a surprisingly insightful and even enjoyable tasting. Time to venture into growing seasons hardly seen to learn more about this Pauillac Second Growth.
Back In Black: Kanonkop Black Label Pinotage 2006-2019
South Africa featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, South Africa, featured
, Aug 2022
A vertical of South African Pinotage might sound like torture to some. When the wine is the Cape’s greatest Pinotage, then you understand why the room was packed for the first ever complete tasting of Kanonkop’s Black Label and why its owners and winemaker flew over for the occasion.
A Quarter of a Century in Chile: A Vertical Tasting of Seña
Chile, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Aug 2022
What were you doing 25 years ago? A quarter of a century is a good chunk of anyone’s life, but time is always a matter of perspective. Whereas for some old-world producers 25 years can go by in the blink of an eye, in South America it represents an eternity. It’s hard to organize a vertical tasting that can adequately tell that story. But it is not impossible.
Scaling Heights: Duroché’s Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1969-2019
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jul 2022
Pierre Duroché’s rapid ascent in Gevrey-Chambertin has been startling to witness. So, when he invited me for a vertical tasting of his Lavaut-Saint Jacques Premier Cru, with a couple of “old vintages” thrown in, I made sure my busy schedule was clear.