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Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 1994-2021
Australia, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Nov 2022
Rules are made to be broken. In the rich landscape of Australian Shiraz, Clonakilla was the original maverick, pioneering cool climate Shiraz Viognier blends in an unlikely new wine region. Serendipitous plantings of Viognier and travels to Domaine Guigal lit a spark that has grown into an unexpected, runaway success that has helped to redefine Australian Shiraz. This vertical tasting of the Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier celebrated the winery’s 50th birthday and showcased a wine with unique finesse and longevity.
Domaine Georges Roumier Part 2: Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Nov 2022
In this second look at Christophe Roumier, the limelight shines upon his Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru. With over a dozen vintages tasted blind, this tasting reveals a winemaker unafraid to translate growing seasons as they are.
Domaine Georges Roumier Part 1: 1988s Examined
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Nov 2022
Sometimes tastings seem beyond the realm of possibility, for example, going through all of Christophe Roumier’s wines from humble Bourgogne Rouge to his elusive Musigny. But to taste a mature vintage like 1988? That was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to assess if Roumier created magic early in his career.
Bending Rules: Les Carmes Haut-Brion 1955-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Oct 2022
Not so long ago Les Carmes Haut-Brion was just another Pessac-Léognon estate. Now it’s one of Bordeaux’s most forward-thinking châteaux. I recently spent a morning with winemaker Guillaume Pouthier, as I wanted to discover the anatomy of the estate and what links its past, present and future.
Decoding Emidio Pepe: 13 Vintages of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Vecchie Vigne
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, Italy: Center & South
, Oct 2022
Steeped in tradition, rare, certainly not inexpensive and sometimes earthy to the point of being rustic…to sum it up: intimidating. That’s what comes to mind for many consumers when they think of approaching an older bottle of Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Over the last six decades, these have been among the most distinctive wines made in Italy. Today, the current generation focuses on the future without taking away from their family’s glorious past.
Dive In: Cantenac Brown 1978-2018
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Oct 2022
Cantenac Brown is one of Margaux’s most ornate, eye-catching châteaux. It has also witnessed a “quiet revolution” in terms of quality. I re-examined recent vintages with winemaker José Sanfins, though sadly there was no chance of a swim afterwards.
Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2022
Didier Cuvelier rejuvenated Léoville-Poyferré. A new chapter opened when his cousin, Sara Lecompte Cuvelier, took over the helm a few years ago. Following a vertical of recent vintages, this article examines one of Saint-Julien’s most respected estates.
The Power and the Passion: Wynns John Riddoch 1982-2019
Australia, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Sep 2022
The roots for Wynns Coonawarra Estate’s Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch were planted over a century ago in the 1890s. Today the wine is a modern Australian classic as illustrated by this full vertical tasting stretching back to the 1982 vintage. Fine, detailed and well structured, these long-lived Cabernet Sauvignons show more than just a passing resemblance to the best wines from the Left Bank and have their own, distinctive Coonawarra style.
Memories Tumble Out: Pichon Baron 1937-1990
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Aug 2022
Even the most famous Bordeaux estates own pitifully small libraries of older vintages. When Christian Seely invited me to taste a bygone era of Pichon Baron from the châteaux’s scant reserves, I knew it would be an unrepeatable travel back in time, one with plenty of surprises.
Relive the Nightmare! 2008 Red & White Burgundy
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Aug 2022
What lies inside a bottle of Burgundy? You never know until you open it. So, when touring the region, I tasted an eclectic array from the divisive 2008 vintage to see how the wines turned out, finding a few surprises on the way.