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Cellar Favorite: 1921 Yquem
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Nov 2024
,After 25 years, I finally re-tasted one of the legendary vintages of Yquem. This extremely rare wine is a joy from start to finish.
Cellar Favorite: 1982 & 2001 Haut-Bages Libéral
France: Bordeaux, Cellar Favorites
Nov 2024
,The 1982 vintage in Bordeaux was a pivotal moment for Bordeaux—the touchpaper that moved the region into the modern age.
Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting
France: Bordeaux, featured
Nov 2024
,The 2020 growing season rests in a surreal haze of upturned history, so I was naturally intrigued to see how the wines would show when it was 2020’s turn for the annual Southwold tasting in January.
Cellar Favorite: 1945 Troplong Mondot
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Nov 2024
,Best vintage of the 20th century? 1945. Few will argue against that. A one-off historical nexus of victory against evil with victory in the vineyard.
Cellar Favorite: 1924 Gruaud Larose
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Oct 2024
,A rare century-old bottle of 1924 Gruaud Larose was a late addition to a mouth-watering line-up of fermented grape juice poured at Ming Court restaurant on my final night in Hong Kong.
The Misunderstood Margaux: Marquis de Terme 1947-2021
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
Oct 2024
,Marquis de Terme is a Margaux château that flies under the radar. Estate director Ludovic David offered me a rare insight into the property and presented a vertical of over 20 vintages back to the postwar period.
Cellar Favorite: 1985 Cheval Blanc
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Sep 2024
,It has been several years since I last tasted the 1985 Cheval Blanc. When this was poured, a guest enquired whether I liked it, to which I replied: “It’s Cheval Blanc…It’s 1985…Of course!”
Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2012 Mouton-Rothschild
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Aug 2024
,Last year, I attended the unveiling of the new artist label at Mouton-Rothschild. This was the first time it was held at the First Growth in Pauillac. Once the artist, Chiharu Shiota, had received her round of applause for her 2021 ‘balloon’ label, guests gathered for dinner featuring two vintages.
Cellar Favorite: 1928-1998 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Aug 2024
,When visiting this Pauillac Second Growth earlier this year, Nicolas Glumineau poured several vintages blind. The theme turned out to be years ending in eight, though when he invited me to choose another, I headed for one of the more disparaged of the 20th century, not without sound reason…
Cellar Favorite: 1949 and 1959 Pape Clément
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Aug 2024
,Like many Bordeaux estates, Pape Clément suffered during the 1930s and the war. Under owner Paul Montagne, it was not until the 1950s that renovation was completed and the wines could reach their potential. Might that explain why the 1959 Pape Clément outshone the 1949 when served at a Bordeaux-themed dinner in Hong Kong last September? Both bottles came from the same cellar.