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Terroir and Determination: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Feb 2023
There was a time when Vino Nobile di Montepulciano would have been lumped into an article of assorted Tuscan villages and wines. The work producers have put into improving their wines is increasingly evident. However, there are still hurdles the region needs to cross.
The Many Faces of McLaren Vale
Australia, featured
, Feb 2023
For over 130 years, the idyllic seaside region of McLaren Vale has been a cornerstone for South Australia, particularly for powerful Shiraz. This report covers McLaren Vale’s recent evolution, defined by wines of increasing subtlety and finesse, seen across Shiraz, and the region’s emerging status as a hotspot for exceptional Grenache.
Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jan 2023
This article cleans out my cupboard of miscellaneous Bordeaux tasting notes. It embraces legendary bottles and iconic vintages, minnows and seasons long-forgotten, even derided. Few pleasures in life surpass that of a bottle of wine with years under its belt.
The Deep Bench of Gigondas
featured, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Jan 2023
Like the rest of the Rhône valley, and Europe, Gigondas has been confronting hot, dry weather conditions since 2017. Luckily, the best, most experienced growers and winemakers have handled the situation with a steady hand. Still, there’s no question that many wines from recent vintages are distinctly powerful, often high in alcohol, with more dark fruit character and tannic structure than usual.
The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Jan 2023
The 2012 Brunello di Montalcinos immediately appealed to buyers, consumers and restaurant-goers. While warm and dry, 2012 yielded balanced wines, but the big question has always been: how well will they mature over time?
Luján de Cuyo: Old Vines and a Patchwork of Soils
featured, Argentina
, Jan 2023
Luján de Cuyo is a historic region that is reinventing itself and looking to a terroir-based future. This report covers the relaunch of the first D.O.C. in South America, several new Malbecs and a handful of old vintages, exploring how a region with much to offer is making the most of its best qualities.
Burgundy 2021: The Market
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2023
This opinion piece was originally composed as part of my 2021 Burgundy report. Given the escalation of prices in recent years, here, I discuss what is fueling this inflation, its potential consequences and trends I have seen with respect to Burgundy’s distribution.
2019 Barolo: Back on Track
featured, Piedmont
, Jan 2023
After the highly problematic and uneven 2018s, Barolo bounces back with a stellar vintage in 2019 that could very well represent the beginning of a new cycle of strong, outstanding years for this historic appellation. The 2019s are potent, tightly wound wines that will thrill readers who appreciate the nuance, subtlety and structure of Nebbiolo. Today, the 2019s show elements of youthful austerity that, at times, recall vintages such as 2016, 2005 and 1999. The only thing 2019 lacks is some of the visceral excitement found in the very best years, although the top wines certainly check all the boxes.
2021 Sonoma Preview
featured, United States: California
, Jan 2023
It’s far too early for me to have a complete view of the 2021 vintage in Sonoma County, but the wines I have tasted so far suggest this is a very good and possibly outstanding vintage. The best 2021s are deep, beautifully layered and highly expressive of site. Watch this space for updates in the coming weeks.
Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2023
Apart from devastating black frost, snow, stunted vine growth, mud, mildew, oïdium, rot, localised hail, difficulties recruiting pickers, erroneous weather forecasts, tiny yields and problems filling vats, the 2021 growing season went swimmingly well in the Côte d’Or. Welcome to the most frustrating, convoluted, brilliant, disappointing, vexing, motley, inspiring, distasteful, delicious, remarkable vintage in recent years.