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Paso Robles 2021-2023: Far From Typical
featured, United States: California
, Jul 2024
Paso Robles fans have reasons to be optimistic. Following the challenging, smoke-affected 2020 vintage, the 2021s are truly fantastic. Although the 2022s are not as captivating, the 2023s may outpace them all.
Digging up a Languedoc Treasure: Mas de Daumas Gassac 1978-2022
France, featured
, Jul 2024
Every ten years, Mas de Daumas Gassac organizes a vertical of their reds at the winery going back to the inaugural 1978 vintage. On this occasion, the winery presented 27 vintages of their flagship red, an incredible opportunity to examine the wines under a magnifying glass.
The Minnow: Sigalas Rabaud 1975-2019
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jul 2024
Continuing my coverage of Sauternes, big and small, this look at Sigalas Rabaud falls into the latter category as one of the appellation’s smallest First Growths. This vertical, held at the property, covers vintages from 1975 to 2019.
2023 Wachau and Lower Austria: Mercurial Weather Gods Smiled in the End
Austria, featured
, Jul 2024
In 2023, all the signs pointed to a long growing season with a late harvest, but rains after a hot summer with record temperatures sped everything up. These August rains provided some relief from dry stress but also turned into devastating hailstorms in places. Coolish and sunny weather allowed hail-damaged grapes to dry, preventing what could have been a complete rot-fest. In the end, growers could harvest ripe grapes. Overall, Lower Austria and Vienna delivered exquisitely clean wines with vivid fruit expression and welcome crunch and contour. If recent comparisons serve, 2023 tops 2022 but does not quite reach the level of 2021 in all respects – even though some wines get there.
A Burgundy Intermezzo
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2024
This brief Burgundy report looks at new releases from an established producer, Domaine Leflaive, a brand new grower, Arnaud Boué and a welcome return for the Chassagne-Montrachets of Domaine Michel Niellon, with an early look at their 2023s.
Loire Chenin Blanc: Chaume the Way
France: Loire, featured
, Jul 2024
Searching for its soul as well as sales, the Loire’s Chenin Blanc producers hope the creation of crus for dry whites will improve quality and their reputation on the world wine stage.
Chianti Classico: The Magnificent 2021s
featured, Italy: Tuscany
, Jul 2024
Two thousand twenty-one is the single greatest young vintage I have ever tasted in Chianti Classico. Period. Full stop. The 2021s are majestic wines endowed with striking aromatics, layered fruit and all the energy that is such a signature of the appellation. Quality is consistently high across the region, while many wines hit breathtaking peaks of excellence. Last year, I wrote, “The 2021s, in particular, are some of the most exciting young wines I have tasted in more than 25 years of visiting the region.” The top bottlings, those being released this year, more than confirm that initial impression. This is a historic vintage Vinous readers will want to pay close attention to.
Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2024
There is justifiable handwringing about Burgundy losing its typicité because of warmer growing seasons. Is that being borne out in the wines? In the first of two blind tastings at the annual Burgfest, I tasted over 200 whites from the 2020 vintage and found reasons to be cheerful.
The Chilean Coast: Where the Pacific Shapes Vibrant Reds and Whites
featured, Chile
, Jul 2024
A little-known strip of Chile is producing a rich seam of distinctive, characterful reds and whites, with Cabernet Sauvignon conspicuously absent. This report focuses on Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cinsault, País and more from the Chilean coastline, where a range of delicious wines are ready to be discovered.
Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jul 2024
Bordeaux vintages are so fascinating that people have been known to write entire books about them! Here, I focus on two particularly intriguing but stylistically different vintages, 1988 and 1989. The former has never quite had the same reputation as the latter. Did that play out during these themed dinners?