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Luján de Cuyo: Old Vines and a Patchwork of Soils
featured, Argentina
, Jan 2023
Luján de Cuyo is a historic region that is reinventing itself and looking to a terroir-based future. This report covers the relaunch of the first D.O.C. in South America, several new Malbecs and a handful of old vintages, exploring how a region with much to offer is making the most of its best qualities.
Burgundy 2021: The Market
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2023
This opinion piece was originally composed as part of my 2021 Burgundy report. Given the escalation of prices in recent years, here, I discuss what is fueling this inflation, its potential consequences and trends I have seen with respect to Burgundy’s distribution.
2019 Barolo: Back on Track
featured, Piedmont
, Jan 2023
After the highly problematic and uneven 2018s, Barolo bounces back with a stellar vintage in 2019 that could very well represent the beginning of a new cycle of strong, outstanding years for this historic appellation. The 2019s are potent, tightly wound wines that will thrill readers who appreciate the nuance, subtlety and structure of Nebbiolo. Today, the 2019s show elements of youthful austerity that, at times, recall vintages such as 2016, 2005 and 1999. The only thing 2019 lacks is some of the visceral excitement found in the very best years, although the top wines certainly check all the boxes.
2021 Sonoma Preview
featured, United States: California
, Jan 2023
It’s far too early for me to have a complete view of the 2021 vintage in Sonoma County, but the wines I have tasted so far suggest this is a very good and possibly outstanding vintage. The best 2021s are deep, beautifully layered and highly expressive of site. Watch this space for updates in the coming weeks.
Cellar Favorite: 2001 Weingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Auslese *** Goldkapsel
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Germany
, Jan 2023
Klaus-Peter Keller’s wines have become collector catnip in recent years, with prices to match. It seems a long time since I made my only visit to the estate. In 2022, I was fortunate to taste several recent vintages and almost forgot this mature gem.
Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2023
Apart from devastating black frost, snow, stunted vine growth, mud, mildew, oïdium, rot, localised hail, difficulties recruiting pickers, erroneous weather forecasts, tiny yields and problems filling vats, the 2021 growing season went swimmingly well in the Côte d’Or. Welcome to the most frustrating, convoluted, brilliant, disappointing, vexing, motley, inspiring, distasteful, delicious, remarkable vintage in recent years.
Cellar Favorite: 2010 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Forêt
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2023
What a treat it is to drink the 2010 Chablis 1er Cru Forêt from Raveneau. I can’t remember the last time I tasted this, it could very well have been when I reviewed it from bottle ten years ago! Back then, I wrote that “The 2010 isn't the most complex Forêt, but it is likely to drink better earlier than some of the other wines in this lineup because of its round, immediate personality.” That’s actually turned out to be pretty accurate. Thank God.
Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône
featured, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Dec 2022
It’s an interesting time for wineries in the Northern Rhône valley. On the one hand, demand for their wines, especially for small-production, single-vineyard bottlings, is higher than ever. On the other, nature hasn’t been playing nice for the last several vintages. Luckily, the best producers have handled the increasingly challenging conditions with aplomb.
2022 – The Year in Review
General Interest, featured
, Dec 2022
Two thousand twenty-two was quite the year. Looking back at the last twelve months, it is pretty amazing to think about how much things have changed, some for the better and some maybe not. As we get ready for our tenth year, though, I am incredibly excited about what the future holds.
Review of 2022
General Interest, featured
, Dec 2022
My aim, every year, is to get to the end in one piece. Mission accomplished. The 2022 vintage is definitely one of the best in recent years. I recount the last 12 months month-by-month, at least the publishable aspects, and as has been tradition for almost 20 years, offer a selection of the best wines and finest music.