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Terroir and Determination: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Feb 2023
There was a time when Vino Nobile di Montepulciano would have been lumped into an article of assorted Tuscan villages and wines. The work producers have put into improving their wines is increasingly evident. However, there are still hurdles the region needs to cross.
Cellar Favorite: 1986 Pape Clément
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Feb 2023
I don’t drink enough mature Pessac-Léognan. I’m not alone there. It’s one of Bordeaux’s overlooked genres of wine. You do not see bottles as often as their Pauillac or Saint-Julien counterparts, as Pessac-Léognan wines do not garner the same reverence, for whatever reason. Meeting up with a friend, newly liberated from Hong Kong, we tasted this little gem.
The Many Faces of McLaren Vale
Australia, featured
, Feb 2023
For over 130 years, the idyllic seaside region of McLaren Vale has been a cornerstone for South Australia, particularly for powerful Shiraz. This report covers McLaren Vale’s recent evolution, defined by wines of increasing subtlety and finesse, seen across Shiraz, and the region’s emerging status as a hotspot for exceptional Grenache.
Cellar Favorite: 1895 Cossart Gordon Bual
Portugal, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2023
Few wines are as indestructible as Madeira. Plenty of 19th-century wines continue to thrive. Following a recent exploration of Frédéric Mugnier’s Chambolle Les Amoureuses, we finished with this fine 128-year-old Madeira that affirmed its time-bending properties.
Vinous Table: Moor Hall, Lancashire, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Jan 2023
Moor Hall completely blew me away; lofty expectations surpassed and then some. It takes the best parts of its peers and combines them into something greater.
Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jan 2023
This article cleans out my cupboard of miscellaneous Bordeaux tasting notes. It embraces legendary bottles and iconic vintages, minnows and seasons long-forgotten, even derided. Few pleasures in life surpass that of a bottle of wine with years under its belt.
Cellar Favorite: 1989 Domaine de Trévallon Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Les Baux
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France
, Jan 2023
In the early days of my career, I drank a lot of mature bottles from Domaine de Trévallon, including one memorable dinner in London with numerous vintages.
The Deep Bench of Gigondas
featured, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Jan 2023
Like the rest of the Rhône valley, and Europe, Gigondas has been confronting hot, dry weather conditions since 2017. Luckily, the best, most experienced growers and winemakers have handled the situation with a steady hand. Still, there’s no question that many wines from recent vintages are distinctly powerful, often high in alcohol, with more dark fruit character and tannic structure than usual.
Cellar Favorite: 1974 Diamond Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Gravelly Meadow
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, United States: California
, Jan 2023
I have always had a soft spot for Diamond Creek Vineyards, charmed by Al and Boots Brounstein, who would regularly pour their wines in London in the early days of my career.
The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Jan 2023
The 2012 Brunello di Montalcinos immediately appealed to buyers, consumers and restaurant-goers. While warm and dry, 2012 yielded balanced wines, but the big question has always been: how well will they mature over time?