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Vinous Table: S.Y. Kitchen, Santa Ynez, CA
Vinous Table, United States: California
, Jul 2024
This recent dinner at S.Y. Kitchen was one of the best meals I have had in a very long time. I am not sure why, but several years had passed since my last visit. That is not a mistake I will make again. Everything we tried was divine.
Paso Robles 2021-2023: Far From Typical
featured, United States: California
, Jul 2024
Paso Robles fans have reasons to be optimistic. Following the challenging, smoke-affected 2020 vintage, the 2021s are truly fantastic. Although the 2022s are not as captivating, the 2023s may outpace them all.
Digging up a Languedoc Treasure: Mas de Daumas Gassac 1978-2022
France, featured
, Jul 2024
Every ten years, Mas de Daumas Gassac organizes a vertical of their reds at the winery going back to the inaugural 1978 vintage. On this occasion, the winery presented 27 vintages of their flagship red, an incredible opportunity to examine the wines under a magnifying glass.
The Minnow: Sigalas Rabaud 1975-2019
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jul 2024
Continuing my coverage of Sauternes, big and small, this look at Sigalas Rabaud falls into the latter category as one of the appellation’s smallest First Growths. This vertical, held at the property, covers vintages from 1975 to 2019.
Cellar Favorite: 1995 Domaine J.L. Chave L’Hermitage Blanc
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jul 2024
I don’t drink enough white Rhône wines. But when I do, it might as well be amongst the very best.
The Cocochine, London, UK
United Kingdom, Vinous Table
, Jul 2024
There are many aspects of The Cocochine that I enjoyed, not least the quality of ingredients and execution. Perhaps the menu plays it safer than I was anticipating. Maybe that was because of my own choices - an observation rather than a criticism. There was something comforting about the dishes encountered at the test kitchen, and this translated onto the menu in terms of failsafe combinations, but that precluded a knockout dish where I wanted to jump up onto my chair and praise the epicurean gods above. I won’t find a better scallop or lamb this year.
2023 Wachau and Lower Austria: Mercurial Weather Gods Smiled in the End
Austria, featured
, Jul 2024
In 2023, all the signs pointed to a long growing season with a late harvest, but rains after a hot summer with record temperatures sped everything up. These August rains provided some relief from dry stress but also turned into devastating hailstorms in places. Coolish and sunny weather allowed hail-damaged grapes to dry, preventing what could have been a complete rot-fest. In the end, growers could harvest ripe grapes. Overall, Lower Austria and Vienna delivered exquisitely clean wines with vivid fruit expression and welcome crunch and contour. If recent comparisons serve, 2023 tops 2022 but does not quite reach the level of 2021 in all respects – even though some wines get there.
A Burgundy Intermezzo
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2024
This brief Burgundy report looks at new releases from an established producer, Domaine Leflaive, a brand new grower, Arnaud Boué and a welcome return for the Chassagne-Montrachets of Domaine Michel Niellon, with an early look at their 2023s.
Loire Chenin Blanc: Chaume the Way
France: Loire, featured
, Jul 2024
Searching for its soul as well as sales, the Loire’s Chenin Blanc producers hope the creation of crus for dry whites will improve quality and their reputation on the world wine stage.
Cellar Favorite: 2015 Envínate Lousas Parcela Camiño Novo
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2024
During the Burgfest tasting, we tend to diversify our drinking habits at dinners as members proffer bottles from their cellars. One of the best was the 2015 Lousas Parcela Camiño Novo from Envínate, which translates as “wine yourself”.