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2022 Wachau and Lower Austria: An Overshadowed Vintage Worth Exploring
Austria, featured
Feb 2024
,Two thousand twenty-two in Austria is a vintage that had the misfortune of following a stellar year. With the spectacular 2021 vintage still fresh in producers’ memories, nobody was waxing lyrical about 2022. It is one of those years that will live in the shadows and eventually be quietly reassessed, especially since the combination of slightly more moderate alcohol levels, with not-quite-as-much stuffing provides surprising drinking pleasure. But, talking about stuffing, there is plenty of that in the best wines.
2013 Brunello di Montalcino: The Throwback Vintage
Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: Tuscany, featured
Feb 2024
,The 2013 Brunellos were often misunderstood on release. The cool, extended growing season yielded aromatic, high-toned wines sparked with elevated acidity, making them immediately appealing. Could they possibly be classic? Now, ten years later, the proof is in the bottle, and 2013 has shown itself to be worthy of attention.
Loire Reds: Beyond the Unicorn
France: Loire, featured
Jan 2024
,When it comes to Loire Valley reds, there is one cult producer whose bottles consistently steal the limelight: Clos Rougeard. Following the inauguration of its revamped winery, financed by the Mariana-Trench-deep pockets of its new owners, it’s timely to consider the impact of this unicorn on local producers and international consumers.
Washington State 2021 and 2020: From the Frying Pan to the Fire
United States: Washington, featured
Jan 2024
,The smoke-plagued 2020 vintage produced wines that are significantly better than originally expected. By comparison, the 2021s show the effects of unrelenting heat and a compressed season. Despite those challenges, top producers found balance in creating opulent wines that will please a broad audience.
Flirting with Perfection - Giaconda Chardonnay 2011-2021
Verticals & Retrospectives, Australia, featured, Argentina featured
Jan 2024
,There are more famous Chardonnays in Australia, but none are more keenly collected or tightly held than Rick Kinzbrunner’s enigmatic Giaconda. Originally conceived in California, Giaconda not only put the small outpost of Beechworth in Victoria on the international map, it also helped an entire nation to find its Chardonnay mojo. A rare chance to taste the last decade of vintages exceeded expectations and showcased a world-class wine that can compete with the very best.
Festa del Barolo 2023 Recap
Italy: Piedmont, featured
Jan 2024
,Festa del Barolo is right around the corner. As we make the final preparations, so many memories of the 2023 edition come rushing back. In 2023, we presented an expanded program of tastings, seminars and dinners. This is a look at some of the many highlights.
Friuli Venezia-Giulia: In Search of an Identity
Italy, featured
Jan 2024
,In the initial stages of the fellowship process with Vinous, I had composed a list of regions I was interested in writing about. In addition to my top areas of interest, I offered a supplemental shortlist of honorable mentions. One of those was Friuli Venezia-Giulia. Despite being a professional wine buyer, I realized that my perception of the region was narrow and inaccurate. A place I once understood as a Pinot Grigio and orange wine haven is a patchwork of fine wine producers struggling to form an identity on a global stage.
Sitting Pretty: Oregon's New Release Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Beyond
United States: Oregon, featured
Jan 2024
,Producers in Oregon have made a remarkable comeback following the nearly non-existent 2020s, with two vintages that are stylistically yin and yang, yet are sure to win the hearts of long-time collectors.
2022 Sonoma Preview: A First Look
United States: California, featured
Jan 2024
,Pinot Noir leads the way in what is turning out to be a surprising set of new releases from Sonoma. The 2022 growing season was marked by several key events, most notably record-setting heat over Labor Day weekend. Not surprisingly, there is some variability, but there are also plenty of stunning wines that are well worth seeking out. This Preview covers new releases from Sonoma and neighboring regions. As is our custom for this article, we will post frequent updates in the coming weeks, which we feel is the best way to keep readers current, given the sheer volume of wines released this time of year.
Fair Warning: Burgundy 2022 - The Market
featured, France: Burgundy
Jan 2024
,I cannot help thinking that Burgundy, or specifically the Côte d’Or, is analogous to a passenger in a sports car in which the accelerator has become stuck, and there is no means of slowing down. Everything hurtles past faster and faster. Everything is sped up. – Burgundy 2021: The Market