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2024 Tuscany Preview
featured, Italy: Tuscany
, Feb 2024
Readers will want to pay special attention to new releases from Tuscany’s 2021 vintage. Favorable growing conditions throughout the year and the gentler winemaking that is increasingly the norm yielded wines that impress with stunning beauty, finesse and exceptional balance. I started tasting the 2021s from barrel in the summer of 2022. Even then, the potential of the vintage was evident. The bottled wines confirm my early impressions. Many estates produced some of their best wines ever. Our Tuscany Preview report covers a handful of new releases ahead of my larger articles coming later in 2024. Watch this space for more.
Come On Aline: Château Coutet 1943-2017
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Feb 2024
Château Coutet has been revered as one of Sauternes/Barsac’s most prestigious sweet wines for decades. This article delves into its long history, but as we discover, under the indefatigable Aline Baly, Coutet is an estate that constantly looks to the future.
The Whites of Rueda Get Serious
featured, Spain
, Feb 2024
A region famous for simple, fruity whites that are ideal for casual summer drinking, Rueda is increasingly producing wines of greater depth and sophistication. The effort put in by producers is beginning to pay off, although it is still early days. In this report, I review some of the bottlings that offer a glimpse into that promising future.
Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Feb 2024
A First Growth vertical that spans 160 years and took over three years to complete? This epic tasting of Château Latour is virtually unique in scope. But instead of simply glorifying ancient vintages, this article painstakingly examines the backdrop to the wines, winemaking practices, those involved in their creation, critics’ reception, market prices and the ups and the downs of this storied estate.
Alto Piemonte: Small Is Beautiful
featured, Italy: Piedmont
, Feb 2024
Alto Piemonte remains one of the most glorious, under the radar regions in the world. Wines of delicacy and transparency communicate the essence of site in the handful of villages that comprise this series of small appellations in Northern Italy. Many estates featured in this report are quite small, making some bottles hard to find. Nevertheless, consumers and professionals seeking fine, artisan wines of place that can diversify any cellar will find so much to admire in Alto Piemonte today.
2022 Wachau and Lower Austria: An Overshadowed Vintage Worth Exploring
featured, Austria
, Feb 2024
Two thousand twenty-two in Austria is a vintage that had the misfortune of following a stellar year. With the spectacular 2021 vintage still fresh in producers’ memories, nobody was waxing lyrical about 2022. It is one of those years that will live in the shadows and eventually be quietly reassessed, especially since the combination of slightly more moderate alcohol levels, with not-quite-as-much stuffing provides surprising drinking pleasure. But, talking about stuffing, there is plenty of that in the best wines.
2013 Brunello di Montalcino: The Throwback Vintage
featured, Italy: Tuscany, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Feb 2024
The 2013 Brunellos were often misunderstood on release. The cool, extended growing season yielded aromatic, high-toned wines sparked with elevated acidity, making them immediately appealing. Could they possibly be classic? Now, ten years later, the proof is in the bottle, and 2013 has shown itself to be worthy of attention.
Loire Reds: Beyond the Unicorn
featured, France: Loire
, Jan 2024
When it comes to Loire Valley reds, there is one cult producer whose bottles consistently steal the limelight: Clos Rougeard. Following the inauguration of its revamped winery, financed by the Mariana-Trench-deep pockets of its new owners, it’s timely to consider the impact of this unicorn on local producers and international consumers.
Washington State 2021 and 2020: From the Frying Pan to the Fire
featured, United States: Washington
, Jan 2024
The smoke-plagued 2020 vintage produced wines that are significantly better than originally expected. By comparison, the 2021s show the effects of unrelenting heat and a compressed season. Despite those challenges, top producers found balance in creating opulent wines that will please a broad audience.
Flirting with Perfection - Giaconda Chardonnay 2011-2021
featured, Australia, Verticals & Retrospectives, Argentina featured
, Jan 2024
There are more famous Chardonnays in Australia, but none are more keenly collected or tightly held than Rick Kinzbrunner’s enigmatic Giaconda. Originally conceived in California, Giaconda not only put the small outpost of Beechworth in Victoria on the international map, it also helped an entire nation to find its Chardonnay mojo. A rare chance to taste the last decade of vintages exceeded expectations and showcased a world-class wine that can compete with the very best.