Browse using the new Vinous website now. Launch →
Vinous Table: Luca, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, May 2024
Let’s cut to the chase. Luca boasts a thick, juicy book of Italian vino that covers the entire ‘boot’, a mixture of marquee names and cult producers that is worthy of entry alone. It’s not a treasure trove of unmissable bargains; to that end, I don’t want to give the false impression of some backwater bistro naively adding 10% to wines bought just after the war. (C’mon, we all dream of those.) Our lunch bill was punchy despite steering wallets clear of Super-Tuscans and blue-chip Barolos. But what you do get for your hard-earned money is some of the best Italian food the capital currently offers, together with a gorgeous wine, irrespective of budget, in a restaurant that is beloved by all who enter.
Vinous Table: The Modern, New York City, NY
United States: New York, Vinous Table
, May 2024
I was excited when my dining companion booked a table at The Modern for this recent lunch. I had not been to The Modern in quite some time, so I was very much looking forward to going back. Over the years, I have had some very good experiences here and some that have been rather lackluster, hence my long absence. Walking into the dining room felt like a refreshing new beginning in a place I have often loved.
Vinous Table: The Devonshire, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, May 2024
The Devonshire is not perfect, but it does things perfectly. It’s currently the place to be seen in London, and you’ll want to return—so will the rest of the world. It’s pub food taken to the nth degree. There’s no snootiness. There is a lot of noise and laughter. It’s hectic and perhaps teeters on chaos. You’ll love it.
Vinous Table: Bouchon Racine, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Apr 2024
Thanks to my connected friend, it had been a splendid evening at Bouchon Racine. I can now tick it off my list, though I would love to return. It is a restaurant that creates its own world, almost hermetically sealed off from the rest of London, so you soon forget you’re not actually in a riverside Lyon bistro but above a pub in central London.
Vinous Table: The Progress, San Francisco, California
Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
This fabulous dinner was a nice break from my recent tastings of new releases from Sonoma. COVID-19 disrupted so many routines, including what used to be frequent trips to San Francisco. As readers know, the city has changed in recent years as it grapples with deep economic and social issues. Even so, San Francisco is a city I love.
Vinous Table: Gyo-kaijin, Kanazawa, Japan
Japan, Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
Gyo-kaijin encapsulates everything life-affirming about Japan’s dining scene. It is inexpensive, has impeccable service, a lively ambiance and, most of all, a standard of cuisine that you have to eat to believe. It was a serendipitous discovery, but knowing Japan as I do, I recognize that there were probably half a dozen other establishments lurking around the corner that would blow my mind and my tastebuds in a similar fashion.
Vinous Table: Kanazawa Setsuri, Kanazawa, Japan
Japan, Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
It is easy to see why Kanazawa Setsuri is a popular local haunt. Sure, the food is absolutely top-notch, in a different league to what I find in the UK, even at exalted prices. The precision here is breathtaking. But what I really appreciate is the bonhomie of Kawada San and his assistant. They made it a dinner that was “fun." I just wish my Japanese was better so that I could have understood the wisecracks that had our doctor friends in stitches.
Vinous Table: Takasegawa, Kyoto, Japan
Japan, Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
Takesegawa epitomizes everything that makes Japan such a special, unique place to dine. The care afforded to every dish is evident by observing the chef and the flavors in the mouth. It’s the kind of place that you fall in love with and, like my fellow diner, you vow to return to every time you go back to Kyoto.
Vinous Table: Tempura Matsu, Kyoto, Japan
Japan, Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
The Michelin guide has not recognized Tempura Matsu. It is rather a Kyoto institution that attracts locals and those piqued by Goulding’s aforementioned book. As I mentioned before, there is something timeless about this restaurant that foments from its half-century of history, its rustic, almost tavern-like interior and its straightforward dishes.
Vinous Table: Koumoto, Tokyo, Japan
Japan, Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
Koumoto is fantastic from start to finish. It is not too pretentious. The staff are friendly and attentive. If you want a masterclass in traditional Japanese cuisine based on fastidiously sourced ingredients, your tastebuds will be eternally grateful.