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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jul 2023
This article looks at the father-to-son ownership of Lynch-Bages over the last century. Jean-Michel Cazes’s recent passing marked the end of an era. But as we shall see, he had the foresight to ensure the next generation, not least his son Jean-Charles, would continue to build on his immense achievements.
Bartolo Mascarello 1955 to…from Magnum
featured, Italy: Piedmont, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jul 2023
When it came time to decide on the Rare Wine Dinner for La Festa del Barolo in 2023, the year of our tenth anniversary, there was only one choice. Bartolo Mascarello was the first grower I met in Piedmont. Mascarello spent several hours with me that afternoon in a wide-ranging discussion that touched on politics, culture and, eventually, wine. It was an important moment, a moment in which I began to understand that the wines I loved so much were deeply shaped by the people who crafted them.
Going Back to My Roots: Putting Liber Pater In Context
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jun 2023
Behind its headline-grabbing price, controversy and click-bait marketing, Liber Pater provokes debate about contemporary viticulture in Bordeaux and beyond. I pull back the artifice to examine the positive and negative without pulling punches. Even if you never taste the wine, this might well be the most interesting article you’ll read this year. It certainly was the most interesting to write.
Half-Century - Not Out: Kanonkop 1973-2015
featured, South Africa, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jun 2023
Stellenbosch stalwart Kanonkop celebrated a half-century of bottling their own wines with a retrospective tasting in London that traveled all the way back to that historic inaugural vintage.
Moving On: Lafon-Rochet 1955-2017
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jun 2023
A chapter closed when the Tesseron family handed the keys to Lafon-Rochet to Jacky Lorenzetti. This article is a record of the final vertical conducted in that era with anecdotes from Basile Tesseron.
Burgundy Focus 4: Ponsot’s Clos de la Roche & Morey Monts Luisants 1934-2019
featured, France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives
, May 2023
To celebrate 150 years of ownership, last May the Ponsot family hosted an extraordinary double vertical of their Clos de la Roche and white Monts Luisants back to the 1930s. This in-depth report examines the roles various family members have played in creating Burgundy as we know it today and reveals some ethereal wines.
Burgundy Focus 3: Mugnier’s Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru 2007-1980
featured, France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives
, May 2023
This unique vertical of Frédéric Mugnier’s Musigny Grand Cru offered a chance to examine one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines back to vintages that predate his arrival. In this instance, going back through time was not unlike witnessing someone unlearning their skill and experience.
Burgundy Focus 2: Domaine Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru 1945-2001
featured, France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Apr 2023
A vertical of any Burgundy going back to 1945 is a special event. This highly anticipated retrospective of Domaine Comte Armand’s Pommard Clos des Epeneaux was a timely reminder that older is not necessarily better. In vino veritas, as they say.
Henschke’s Hill of Grace - The Garden of Eden
featured, Australia, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Apr 2023
Henschke’s iconic single vineyard Hill of Grace Shiraz, based on plantings that trace back over 160 years, is a wine built on intergenerational blood, sweat and tears. A rare vertical celebrating 60 years since the first vintage, including the inaugural 1958, showcased a wine building in confidence and stature to become one of Australia’s finest.
Burgundy Focus 1: Duroché’s Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 1988-2020
featured, France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Apr 2023
This is the first of four Burgundy-themed articles focusing on a single wine. Burgundy verticals are uncommon and almost impossible to repeat. Therefore, it would be remiss of me not to publish them as bite-size standalone pieces for future reference.