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Vinous Table: Tempura Matsu, Kyoto, Japan
Japan, Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
The Michelin guide has not recognized Tempura Matsu. It is rather a Kyoto institution that attracts locals and those piqued by Goulding’s aforementioned book. As I mentioned before, there is something timeless about this restaurant that foments from its half-century of history, its rustic, almost tavern-like interior and its straightforward dishes.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Latour à Pomerol
Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite
, Apr 2024
The 1990 Latour à Pomerol epitomizes everything one could wish for in a mature Pomerol, but without paying a king’s ransom. Despite the highly regarded growing season, I approach this with modest expectations because these were not halcyon days for the estate.
Vinous Table: Koumoto, Tokyo, Japan
Japan, Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
Koumoto is fantastic from start to finish. It is not too pretentious. The staff are friendly and attentive. If you want a masterclass in traditional Japanese cuisine based on fastidiously sourced ingredients, your tastebuds will be eternally grateful.
Vinous Table: Japan Gastronomy: A Primer
Japan, Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
I returned to Japan for the first time after five years and visited a number of restaurants with a view to composing articles for Vinous Table. Rather than launching straight into the first, I thought it better to offer a primer for the uninitiated, perhaps something that might encourage readers to stop enjoying Japan’s cuisine vicariously and visit the country. It aims to serve as a very simple guide and give a few pointers and tips for navigating what can be a disorientating place. Like everywhere, there are tourist traps and pitfalls to avoid. Those living in Japan will have a far better knowledge of the contemporary dining scene, so I must stress that this article is based on my personal experience.
The Only Way Is Essex: Danbury Ridge
United Kingdom, featured
, Apr 2024
This article focuses on Danbury Ridge, the first English winery to make a serious case for still wine that, by happenstance, is located close to my place of birth. Writing about this Essex-based producer raises issues germane to wineries around the world: the notional exclusivity of terroir, how global warming is moving viticultural boundaries and the importance of maintaining open-mindedness about what constitutes ‘fine wine’.
Cellar Favorite: 2014 M & C Lapierre Morgon Marcel Lapierre Cuvée MMXIV
Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite
, Apr 2024
The 2014 Morgon Marcel Lapierre Cuvée MMXIV comes from 2.5 hectares planted in 1907-1910, just after phylloxera. The vines are located in the Le Douby climat, towards Fleurie, which the legendary Marcel Lapierre has intermittently bottled separately since 1999. Authorities refused the maiden vintage since it did not adhere to the typical Morgon style for reasons only known to them. To circumvent demotion into Vin de France, Marcel Lapierre’s son, the then teenage Mathieu, who is recounting this story in the sunny courtyard outside the winery in Villié-Morgon, suggested his father print the vintage in Roman numerals.
An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Mar 2024
Do you want one of the most comprehensive reports on Gruaud Larose ever written? Do you want to know its history and first-hand information from proprietor Jean Merlaut? Do you want 70 tasting notes stretching back in time to 1831? You’ve come to the right place.
Cellar Favorite: 2017 Domaine Samuel Billaud Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru
Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy, cellar favorite
, Mar 2024
I have praised Samuel Billaud’s wines for around a decade now, going so far as to suggest that they rank amongst Chablis’ premier tier of producers, alongside Raveneau and Dauvissat. A recent dinner at the splendid Lorne restaurant, the same that saw the 1973 La Fleur-Pétrus opened, also witnessed a bottle that ‘sizzled’ with potential.
Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Mar 2024
The Bordeaux 2014 vintage has reached ten years of age, an ideal opportunity to look back, both in blind and sighted tastings, and see how the wines are evolving. As usual, there were plenty of surprises, not always positive, however.
Cellar Favorite: 1991 René Balthazar Cornas
Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite
, Mar 2024
The Northern Rhône is a region that I would like to know better. There is too little time with Burgundy and Bordeaux under my charge, so I look forward to future reports from my colleague, Nicolas Greinacher. A recent Riesling/Syrah-themed dinner was bejeweled with exquisite bottles and fodder for several Cellar Favorites. This one caught my eye.