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Cellar Favorite: 1930 KWV Muscadel Bin 14 Late Bottled Vintage
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, South Africa
, May 2024
Ancient South African ports have a cult following, and though they are not cheap due to demand, they represent outstanding value compared to other wines.
Vinous Table: The Devonshire, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, May 2024
The Devonshire is not perfect, but it does things perfectly. It’s currently the place to be seen in London, and you’ll want to return—so will the rest of the world. It’s pub food taken to the nth degree. There’s no snootiness. There is a lot of noise and laughter. It’s hectic and perhaps teeters on chaos. You’ll love it.
Cellar Favorite: 1938 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Apr 2024
When someone whispers into your ear, particularly my ear, that you will never drink this bottle again, the aforementioned ear perks up. The 1938 Côte-Rôtie from Paul Jaboulet Aîné had lived its entire life in a cool dank cellar over in the West Country, so factor in perfect provenance. Though the bottle states Jaboulet on the label, it is more accurate to look at this as an amalgamation of all the growers in Côte-Rôtie at the time since hardly any bottled themselves.
The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Apr 2024
The 2023 Bordeaux vintage is born in tumultuous times, at a pivotal moment for the region. When that is all stripped away, what do the wines offer in a growing season that swerved one way then another? The answer depends on which château you’re looking at.
Vinous Table: Bouchon Racine, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Apr 2024
Thanks to my connected friend, it had been a splendid evening at Bouchon Racine. I can now tick it off my list, though I would love to return. It is a restaurant that creates its own world, almost hermetically sealed off from the rest of London, so you soon forget you’re not actually in a riverside Lyon bistro but above a pub in central London.
Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012
featured, France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Apr 2024
Bouchard Père & Fils own one of the deepest Burgundy libraries of vintages back to the 19th century. This article recounts last November’s dinner when bottles with years ending in two stretching back through decades were opened.
But Seriously: Beaujolais 2021-2023
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Apr 2024
Beaujolais is one of the most dynamic wine regions in France. This report looks at new releases that almost entirely represent outstanding value for money, growers on the rise and the sheer diversity that Beaujolais has to offer.
Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Vin de Pays de L'Herault
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France
, Apr 2024
It must have been a decade ago when I attended a vertical of Domaine de la Grange des Pères in London. Then, it was revered as arguably Languedoc’s only true cult wine and, combined with its price tag, I was rather put off.
Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Apr 2024
Lafite-Rothschild can age for decades, but it can be a difficult wine to understand. This vertical stretches back to the 19th century and features some riveting examples of the First Growth and vintages that were reminders of how precarious it can be opening ancient Claret.
Cellar Favorite: 1993 Domaine de Chevalier
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Apr 2024
Last October, I was in Bordeaux during the autumn Porte Ouverte days, when locals can tour châteaux and attend evening dinners, many of which are inexpensive to take part in. I was tasting the 2021s on the same day as Domaine de Chevalier’s soirées, and proprietor Olivier Bernard invited me, along with around 200 other guests. With so many people, you need a large bottle!