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2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges
germany: Mosel, Germany: Saar, Germany: Ruwer, Germany, featured
Oct 2023
,Despite a hot and dry summer that brought record water deficits, the “challenging” Mosel vintage of 2022 delivered elegant wines. The best estates were able to make very good and even outstanding wines marked by moderate alcohol levels and freshness. This came down to three things: the resilience of deep-rooting old Riesling vines, the ingenuity of Riesling’s ability to self-regulate its metabolism and sorting at harvest.
2022 Rheinhessen & Nahe: Rain in the Nick of Time
Germany, featured
Sep 2023
,Relief and surprise were the primary emotions for winemakers across Rheinhessen and Nahe for the 2022 vintage, the driest and sunniest year since records began in 1881. Many expected opulence in their wines. Then rain arrived just in time. The relative slenderness of the wines and their moderate alcohol levels, however, are down to Riesling’s ingenious ability to self-regulate.
Markus Molitor Debuts Inaugural Rieslings from Domäne Serrig
Germany, featured
Sep 2023
,After having purchased the former royal Prussian state domain in the Saar Valley in 2016, German winemaker and Riesling supremo Markus Molitor now debuts the first two wines from the historic Serriger Vogelsang vineyard and the Domäne Serrig label: one dry Riesling, one Kabinett.
Germany Pre-Auctions Report: Trier and Bad Kreuznach
Germany, featured
Sep 2023
,The VDP’s two regional auctions in Trier and Bad Kreuznach in September are key dates for Riesling collectors. I was invited to attend pre-auction tastings held by the producers over the summer ahead of the auctions themselves. This article explains how these auctions work, but far more detail on the vintage and wineries will be in the respective regional reports covering Rheinhessen & Nahe and Mosel, Saar & Ruwer.
Cellar Favorite: Famille Hugel - The 2015 Riesling Séléctions de Grains Nobles S and 2014 Riesling Grossi Laüe
France: Alsace, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Jul 2023
,Jean-Frédéric Hugel paid a brief visit to London to launch a brace of late-release Rieslings. One from the 2014 vintage, from their top site Grand Cru Schoenenbourg. While the 2015 has already been released, this is the first vintage in which Hugel finally uses the grand cru designation rather than their Alsatian dialect term Grossi Laüe.
2021 Mosel and Saar – Tantalizing, Tingling, Thrilling
germany: Mosel, Germany: Saar, featured
Jun 2023
,The best dry 2021s from Mosel and Saar offer incredible clarity, poise and longevity. The top off-dry and sweet wines are analytics-defying tightrope acts, teetering between electric sharpness and fruity allure drawn mostly across the entire citrus spectrum. A long, cool growing season meant full aromatic development alongside pine-tingling acidity. It is a vintage for true Riesling hounds and those who delight in the deliciously bracing drama on the palate that only Riesling can offer.
Alsace 2021s and 2020s – A Late Arrival in the Pinot Noir Pantheon
France: Alsace, featured
Apr 2023
,At long last, Alsace Pinot Noirs are coming to the fore. Hectares under vine are steadily increasing, and so is grower expertise. Some producers are veterans in teasing complex, elegant and expressive wines from this much-loved grape variety. Others are just starting. Pinot Noir is one of the most exciting developments in Alsace, and there are other varietal experiments, too.
Alsace 2020s and 2021s: Just like Janus
France: Alsace, featured
Apr 2023
,Two fundamentally different vintages, the hot 2020 and the problematic 2021, form the basis of my first Alsace report for Vinous. It turns out that the best producers came up with some stunning wines – negotiating and countering the heat in 2020 and sorting, sorting, sorting to produce exceptional wines with a wonderful acidic backbone in 2021, a year beset by mildew.