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Alsace 2022 Reds: Continuing Their Trajectory
France: Alsace, featured
May 2024
,Alsace Pinot Noir continues to show its mettle. Most of the wines I tasted for this report are from the warm 2022 vintage, so sumptuous black cherry flavors abound, but happily free from the sins of over-oaking and over-extraction. The limestone-based wines are the clear winners. While the entry-level reds provide immense fresh-faced joy with their juiciness, the top wines need not shy away from the global limelight. The 2021 Pinot Noirs are trickier, but the best come with seductive slenderness and red-fruited brightness.
Cellar Favorite: 1930 KWV Muscadel Bin 14 Late Bottled Vintage
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, South Africa
May 2024
,Ancient South African ports have a cult following, and though they are not cheap due to demand, they represent outstanding value compared to other wines.
Vinous Table: The Devonshire, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
May 2024
,The Devonshire is not perfect, but it does things perfectly. It’s currently the place to be seen in London, and you’ll want to return—so will the rest of the world. It’s pub food taken to the nth degree. There’s no snootiness. There is a lot of noise and laughter. It’s hectic and perhaps teeters on chaos. You’ll love it.
Marche Stays the Course Amidst Future Uncertainty
Italy: Center & South, featured
May 2024
,The writing for Marche is on the wall. Quality remains exceptionally high. A new focus on terroir and a focus on exalting a sense of place has been wildly successful. Moreover, the wines remain extremely well-priced. That said, Marche faces significant challenges in maintaining its share of international markets.
Cellar Favorite: 1938 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Apr 2024
,When someone whispers into your ear, particularly my ear, that you will never drink this bottle again, the aforementioned ear perks up. The 1938 Côte-Rôtie from Paul Jaboulet Aîné had lived its entire life in a cool dank cellar over in the West Country, so factor in perfect provenance. Though the bottle states Jaboulet on the label, it is more accurate to look at this as an amalgamation of all the growers in Côte-Rôtie at the time since hardly any bottled themselves.
Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur
France: Bordeaux, featured
April 2024
,Tasting Bordeaux en primeur is largely the art of shutting out extraneous noise and concentrating just on the wines. This year, the noise is especially loud as estate owners, winemakers, consultants, négociants and other professionals debate the merits of 2023 within the context of today’s global market. Many of these views are fueled by agendas, which is certainly understandable. For this taster, it’s only about what is in the glass. When all is said and done, 2023 has a lot to offer. It is not a great vintage across the board, yet plenty of wines merit serious attention.
The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023
France: Bordeaux, featured
Apr 2024
,The 2023 Bordeaux vintage is born in tumultuous times, at a pivotal moment for the region. When that is all stripped away, what do the wines offer in a growing season that swerved one way then another? The answer depends on which château you’re looking at.
Vinous Table: Bouchon Racine, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
Apr 2024
,Thanks to my connected friend, it had been a splendid evening at Bouchon Racine. I can now tick it off my list, though I would love to return. It is a restaurant that creates its own world, almost hermetically sealed off from the rest of London, so you soon forget you’re not actually in a riverside Lyon bistro but above a pub in central London.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Both Sides of the Spectrum
featured, Italy: North
Apr 2024
,Two successive warm and drought-filled years challenged winemakers in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, yet the 2021s and 2022s still offer plenty of pleasure. Readers will find many beautifully balanced yet sun-kissed wines. Unfortunately, others lack substance and come across as aromatically challenged, ripe and one-dimensional.
Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012
featured, France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives
Apr 2024
,Bouchard Père & Fils own one of the deepest Burgundy libraries of vintages back to the 19th century. This article recounts last November’s dinner when bottles with years ending in two stretching back through decades were opened.