Unearthing Tuscan Gems: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond

BY ERIC GUIDO | MARCH 13, 2025

Focusing on all of Tuscany in one report is almost impossible without sacrificing the details that make it unique. Unlike some Italian regions, Tuscany cannot be adequately summarized with a single vintage report and generalized terroir assessment. It requires a more nuanced approach.

However, Tuscany is undoubtedly worth the effort. Hunting for some of the greatest Sangiovese-based wines outside the big three—Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Montepulciano—can be extremely rewarding. Moreover, there’s a long list of international varieties that have found an unlikely home, thriving throughout Tuscany’s nooks and crannies. It’s extremely telling that of the nearly 200 wines in this report, 84 are labeled as IGT Toscana, produced outside of either DOC or DOCG rules or boundaries. Many of these wines originate from terroirs that have yet to be fully explored. For instance, the high-elevation slopes of Mount Amiata are a hot spot for new projects. Producers from the surrounding regions of Montalcino and Montecucco eagerly look to this location for future development.

Val d'Orcia, looking toward the town of Montalcino

There are so many diverse terroirs and styles to consider. Sometimes, it’s a new upstart or young aspiring winemaker who’s found a field of old vines to tend. Sometimes, it’s a family that has farmed their land for generations but only recently decided to become serious about their marketing and expanding to a broader audience. These wines can often present exceptional value or give rise to the next big cult producer who hasn’t yet gained the recognition they deserve. Valdarno di Sopra, Val di Chiana, Pisa and Val d’Orcia all have outstanding winemakers who are trailblazing in their regions. Then, of course, there’s Cortona, Montecucco and Carmignano, where the size of the DOC or DOCG prevents these producers from gaining the recognition they deserve. Carmignano has only 13 wineries in the Consorzio, and I typically only see three of its producers in international markets. Does that mean the rest of them aren’t worth our attention? Of course not. The same can be said for Montecucco. Not every region has the funds or organization to push its name out into the world, so if a wine lover doesn’t happen to visit the area or find the wines on a local list while visiting Tuscany, how will they ever know what they are missing? 

That’s why I consider this one of the year's most important reports. While this may not be a deep dive into a specific terroir or an in-depth view of a particular vintage, it is a collection of exceptional wines that deserve attention. 

New Developments in Montecucco

In previous reports, I’ve gone into detail regarding Montecucco’s terroir. I urge readers to reference my article Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond for an in-depth discussion on the topic. Montecucco is a fascinating region, yet it is far too diverse to pigeonhole. The most significant factor in its diversity is its sheer size and the drastic changes in elevations and soils as its borders stretch from the Tuscan coast up to the slopes of Mount Amiata. With that said, many winemakers from surrounding regions (Montalcino being the closest, as it borders Montecucco to the north and east) have planted stakes here. However, for the most part, wineries outside of Montecucco with vineyards within Montecucco are forced to bottle their wines as IGT Toscana. The reason for this lies in the rules of the DOC, which prevent any winemaker without a winery located within the area from using Montecucco on their label. A rare example is Sassetti Livio, known as Sassetti Livio Pertimali in Montalcino, a winery that makes Montecucco within the DOC, as they purchased vineyards in the region and a facility. With this in mind, Il Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco has proposed removing this stipulation from the region's governing DOC and DOCG rules. This would be a significant boon to the region and would allow a large number of outside winemakers, often with prestigious names in other areas, to begin producing a Montecucco Rosso or Montecucco Sangiovese with the DOC or DOCG stated on the label.

The vineyards of Montecucco

Efforts are also underway in Montecucco to extend the region's boundaries beyond the current 600-meter elevation limit. This change would allow winemakers to plant higher up on the slopes of Mount Amiata. As I mentioned before, this location is a hotbed of activity where many winemakers throughout the southeast of Tuscany are looking to experiment. One of the first big names to make a mark on Mount Amiata is Sebastian Nasello, winemaker for Podere Le Ripi in Montalcino. Nasello created the Bakkanali brand (included in the following notes) for wines that he makes from elevations between 600 and 800 meters. The conditions at these heights offset the effects of the warming trends felt throughout southern Tuscany. Soils on the higher slopes are notably complex, including limestone, Flysh marls and volcanic sands. This terroir is not only perfect for Sangiovese, but white varieties could thrive here as well. Allowing Montecucco wineries to plant higher on the slopes of Mount Amiata would create an entirely new category of wines built on minerality, tension and finesse.

Unfortunately, these changes don’t fix one of the main issues with Montecucco, which is the extreme variation in styles and quality throughout the region. It would be beneficial for the governing bodies to take a closer look at the rules governing vineyard practices, such as yields and vine age, in order to raise the bar across the region. Sadly, without changes to these regulations, it remains logical to buy wines based on the producer's name rather than Montecucco's reputation alone.

Fog burning off through the lowlands of Carmignano

Carmignano Stays the Course

Little has changed in the year since I last touched on Carmignano, but this is a situation where no news is good news. This report focuses on 2023 Barco Reale di Carmignano (the category where winemakers create entry-level wines to introduce consumers to their brands), primarily 2021 and some 2022 Carmignano (the wineries’ flagship wines) and a smattering of 2019 and 2020 Riservas. I also included three mini-verticals, one from Piaggia and two from Tenuta di Capezzana, which illustrate Carmignano’s incredible aging potential. 

The vertical tastings and recent releases clearly demonstrate that the growing seasons in Carmignano differ significantly from most of Tuscany. Even Chianti Classico, located just south of Carmignano, has an entirely different terroir. Elevations here start surprisingly low, ranging from 53 to 400 meters, yet still, Carmignano has a hilly terrain with steep inclines and varied exposures. The region is also particularly secluded, bordered by Monte Albano on the west (which blocks warming air currents from the Tyrrhenian Sea) and the Apennines to the east. This creates a bowl-shaped valley with northern and southern influences. The 2023 vintage is a perfect example of how different Carmignano is from its neighbors, as Carmignano didn’t suffer the losses from Peronospora (downy mildew) that other nearby regions did. Instead, winemakers here enjoyed a warm season with balanced precipitation. The same can be said for 2022, a warm and dry year that yielded wines of incredible balance.

The hills of Carmignano

Granted, Carmignano does have the advantage of blending. Sangiovese is a very finicky grape, and while other parts of Tuscany strive toward higher percentages of the variety, Carmignano happily remains as it has been for decades, with an allowance for up to 30% of other red varieties in the mix. The most notable is Cabernet Sauvignon, a grape that may be considered “international” but has a history in the region dating back to the 16th century. Merlot is another favorite of Carmignano producers. Some of the varietal Merlots I tasted for this report are a testament to Merlot’s potential here. The power of blending should not be underestimated, as it allows winemakers to create the best possible wine from the given vintage. Compare this to a region like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where, for example, a larger addition of Mouvèdre can offset a poor year for Grenache. 

Readers will find a lot to like in the new releases from Carmignano.. This region is one of the hidden gems of Tuscany, and too few of these wines make it into the U.S. market. The wines of Carmignano also provide tremendous value, especially for lovers of Super Tuscans. As for the current vintages, the 2019s are geared for a long evolution; expect to cellar them for upwards of five to ten years. The 2020s and 2021s show more elegance, with the 2021s edging out the 2020s from the perspective of sheer depth. The 2022s are still relatively young yet balanced, possessing a warm-vintage feel but with no hints of being overripe or cloying. Most of the 2022s are already showing beautifully. As for 2023, I’ll reserve judgment of the more important wines, but I love their blend of minerality and juiciness. I tasted several 2023s from barrel at Piaggia, which left me very excited for what lies ahead. 

I tasted the wines in the article in Tuscany in fall 2024 and in follow-up tastings in our New York City offices.

© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

---

You Might Also Enjoy

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: An Unstoppable Force, Eric Guido, February 2025

Carmignano, Montecucco and Tuscany’s Unrivaled Diversity, Eric Guido, March 2024

Terroir and Determination: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Eric Guido, February 2023

Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond, Eric Guido, February 2023