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2019 Château Montus and Bouscassé: A Premiere Glance
France, featured
, Apr 2024
For decades, the secluded Madiran AOC in Southwest France has quietly cultivated its reputation. Now, the spotlight turns to the 2019 releases from Château Montus and Bouscassé, unveiling wines shaped by evolving viticultural and winemaking practices. Antoine Veiry, the 30-year-old stepson of Alain Brumont, is driving this transformation as he leads both estates into a promising new era.
Cellar Favorite: 1993 Domaine de Chevalier
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Apr 2024
Last October, I was in Bordeaux during the autumn Porte Ouverte days, when locals can tour châteaux and attend evening dinners, many of which are inexpensive to take part in. I was tasting the 2021s on the same day as Domaine de Chevalier’s soirées, and proprietor Olivier Bernard invited me, along with around 200 other guests. With so many people, you need a large bottle!
Vinous Table: Gyo-kaijin, Kanazawa, Japan
Vinous Table, Japan
, Apr 2024
Gyo-kaijin encapsulates everything life-affirming about Japan’s dining scene. It is inexpensive, has impeccable service, a lively ambiance and, most of all, a standard of cuisine that you have to eat to believe. It was a serendipitous discovery, but knowing Japan as I do, I recognize that there were probably half a dozen other establishments lurking around the corner that would blow my mind and my tastebuds in a similar fashion.
Vinous Table: Kanazawa Setsuri, Kanazawa, Japan
Vinous Table, Japan
, Apr 2024
It is easy to see why Kanazawa Setsuri is a popular local haunt. Sure, the food is absolutely top-notch, in a different league to what I find in the UK, even at exalted prices. The precision here is breathtaking. But what I really appreciate is the bonhomie of Kawada San and his assistant. They made it a dinner that was “fun." I just wish my Japanese was better so that I could have understood the wisecracks that had our doctor friends in stitches.
2023 New Zealand Whites: The Cyclone Vintage
New Zealand, featured
, Apr 2024
New Zealanders will forever remember the summer of 2023 as the year Cyclone Gabrielle swept away homes, vineyards and dreams. Wine producers on the storm-battered North Island had few reasons to smile. However, it was a different story for South Islanders: they escaped the worst of the weather’s wrath yet were burdened with survivors’ guilt as their colleagues across the Cook Strait were overwhelmed by the elements.
Vinous Table: Takasegawa, Kyoto, Japan
Vinous Table, Japan
, Apr 2024
Takesegawa epitomizes everything that makes Japan such a special, unique place to dine. The care afforded to every dish is evident by observing the chef and the flavors in the mouth. It’s the kind of place that you fall in love with and, like my fellow diner, you vow to return to every time you go back to Kyoto.
Disznókő Tokaji: Latest Releases
Hungary, featured
, Apr 2024
Despite a long and illustrious history, Tokaji remains undiscovered by many wine lovers, not only its famous sweet Aszú wines but also its dry whites. I wish I could spend more time with its wines, but I did have a chance to taste a raft of young and old releases from Disznókő in London recently.
Vinous Table: Tempura Matsu, Kyoto, Japan
Vinous Table, Japan
, Apr 2024
The Michelin guide has not recognized Tempura Matsu. It is rather a Kyoto institution that attracts locals and those piqued by Goulding’s aforementioned book. As I mentioned before, there is something timeless about this restaurant that foments from its half-century of history, its rustic, almost tavern-like interior and its straightforward dishes.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Latour à Pomerol
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Apr 2024
The 1990 Latour à Pomerol epitomizes everything one could wish for in a mature Pomerol, but without paying a king’s ransom. Despite the highly regarded growing season, I approach this with modest expectations because these were not halcyon days for the estate.
Vinous Table: Koumoto, Tokyo, Japan
Vinous Table, Japan
, Apr 2024
Koumoto is fantastic from start to finish. It is not too pretentious. The staff are friendly and attentive. If you want a masterclass in traditional Japanese cuisine based on fastidiously sourced ingredients, your tastebuds will be eternally grateful.