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The Vast Bounty of Central Spain
featured, Spain
Feb 2021
,While serious wine fanatics are well acquainted with Ribera del Duero, Toro and Rueda, much of the world consumes millions of gallons of wine a year made in the less lofty nearby regions, especially La Mancha and the far-reaching Castilla y León, both of which often deliver excellent value. Then there are unsung DOs like Campo de Borja, where readers will find some of the biggest bang-for-the-buck Grenache in the world.
The Year of Jazz & Wine: 1959
Germany, France, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, Spain
Nov 2020
,Two extraordinary 1959-themed dinners at the end of last year presented a mouthwatering opportunity to examine this legendary vintage. This article looks at those wines and some of the stories that lie behind them.
Cellar Favorite: 1899 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Blanco
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Spain
Aug 2020
,This half-bottle of 1899 Rioja Blanco from Marqués de Murrieta concluded a memorable supper at Oswald’s private club in London just after the New Year, when a friend was visiting from East Asia.
Cellar Favorite: 2009 Pepe Raventós Mas del Serral
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Spain
Mar 2020
,I met winemaker Pepe Raventós at a dinner for artisan Spanish winemakers at Noble Rot that preceded the Viñateros tasting this past February. We never met during my short tenure as reviewer, however it was his wines alongside those of Gramona, that blew apart my preconceptions of what Cava can achieve.
Cellar Favorite: 1959 Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Rioja
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Spain
Feb 2020
,Rioja has always held a special place in my heart. I discovered pretty early on that l liked reds with bottle age, but I could hardly afford any of the heavy hitters of that time. Any time I needed a wine with a bit of age for a special occasion, it was always Rioja.
Vinous Table: Casa Cámara, San Juan de Pasajes, Spain
Vinous Table, Spain
Nov 2019
,This is an institution that goes about its business in discreet fashion, doing what it has done for decades: serving delicious seafood and providing a memorable evening out.
Cellar Favorite: Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 1952-2015
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Spain
Oct 2019
,It was a pleasure to take a break during a period of alternating between Bordeaux and Burgundy and attend a tasting of one of my favorite Rioja producers: Marqués de Riscal.
Mediterranean Spain: Diversity and Consistency
featured, Spain
Apr 2019
,From northeastern Catalonia to the country’s southeast corner and all the way west to Andalusia, Spain’s Mediterranean Ocean–influenced winegrowing regions have been experiencing a run of almost uniformly very good to epic vintages.
Spain’s Northern Regions Keep It Cool
featured, Spain
Mar 2019
,Spain’s northern, Atlantic Ocean–influenced winegrowing zones were virtually unknown to most wine lovers only a decade ago, but things have changed dramatically. The popularity of some of Spain’s high-quality red wines and racy whites from the area continues a steep upward trajectory.
Rioja Looks Back and Ahead
featured, Spain
Feb 2019
,Traditionally made Riojas are having a moment. Old-school, elegant Riojas have caught the attention of collectors and sommeliers around the world, putting pressure on the supply of some of the region’s most famous wines. At the same time, a number of modern-leaning producers have begun to throttle back on assertive oak, extraction and alcohol levels, which is a highly welcome development. The recent 2016, 2015 and 2014 vintages have been very good to outstanding, with healthy yields that ensure there’s plenty of wine to go around.